Toronto’s Best New Restaurants: Café Cancan

Toronto’s Best New Restaurants: Café Cancan

Café Cancan

Only Victor Barry, who had the gall to turn the revered Splendido into the family-style Italian restaurant Piano Piano, would replace Cory Vitiello’s shuttered Harbord Room, which defined this city’s gastropub scene of game and craft ales, with a bistro so very pink and giddy it could be Holly Golightly’s closet.

Duck leg confit with farro, diced green apple, savoy cabbage and duck jus.

It’s impossible to be a grump here. Several tables are set for side-by-side canoodling, and everyone sips champagne cocktails or on-tap rosé while deciding between French classics: cheat on your diet with the beefy onion soup under an oozing cap of ­gruyère, the three foie gras options (seared, a parfait, with beef tender­loin) or save yourself for a slice of coffee-scented opera cake. Luxury is Barry’s default mode. There’s even a Barry-fied burger slicked with remoulade on a house-made milk bun.

89 Harbord St., 647-341-3100,

French onion soup with beef shank and loads of gruyère.
Barry’s Burger, topped with mayo remoulade, red onion, pickles and cheese.