Grey Gardens

You’ll need to employ the scattergun approach when ordering at this two-year-old Kensington restaurant and wine bar—the menu is divided into four slightly perplexing categories—but you’ll be happy with the effort. Aesthetically pleasing seafood dominates, and the smoked mackerel dip, one of only a few dishes remaining from chef Mitchell Bates’s opening-day menu, is aggressively fishy and immensely addictive when smeared on the house-made gaufrettes. The sockeye salmon is the colour of a shimmering basketball, and a wedge of pearlescent halibut appears to have been chiselled from marble. A puck-shaped churro proves to be the ideal foundation for fresh strawberries, a scoop of mascarpone ice cream and a ring of matcha cream.

199 Augusta Ave., 647-351-1552, greygardens.ca