100 Top Restaurants: #43 – Labora

At the end of 2017, chef Rob Bragagnolo opened Campo Food Hall, a slightly grandiose title for what was, by day, a takeout counter and juice bar. The real story is at the rear, where he runs his tapas restaurant, Labora. The menu emphasizes seafood, and one night includes a terrific slider of calamari and pickled pepper, which Bragagnolo lifted from Bodega 1900, a Barcelona vermouth bar run by his hero, chef Albert Adrià. No less excellent are grilled octopus with crisped threads of potato, or a row of cold-smoked mackerel slices standing like soldiers at attention, each paired with a dot of blood-orange marmalade. The star one night is a giant red Spanish prawn, split then grilled and anointed simply with a few drops of olive oil. The best chefs know when to let a shrimp speak for itself. 433 King St. W., 416-260-9993.