100 Top Restaurants: #38 – Cafe Cancan

It’s impossible to be a grump at Victor Barry’s very-pink French spot. Everyone sips champagne cocktails or on-tap rosé while deciding between French classics: beefy onion soup under an oozing cap of gruyère; three foie gras options (seared, a parfait, with beef tenderloin); or a slice of coffee-scented opera cake. Luxury is the default mode. There’s even a Barry-fied burger slicked with remoulade on a house-made milk bun. 89 Harbord St., 647-341-3100.