Introducing: Buca Yorkville, Rob Gentile’s long-awaited spin-off near the Four Seasons

| October 16, 2014

Name: Buca Osteria & Bar Contact Info: 53 Scollard St. (entrance is through the Four Seasons courtyard on Yorkville Ave.), 416-962-2822, buca.ca, @bucayorkville
Neighbourhood: Yorkville Owners: Peter Tsebelis, Gus Giazitizidis and Rob Gentile of King Street Food Company Chefs: Executive chef Rob Gentile and chef de cuisine Ryan Campbell

The Food: Billed as the coastal cousin to Buca on King Street, the seafood-heavy menu includes pizzas, pastas and pescatarian charcuterie, plus daily whole-fish options, like an entire raw branzino that’s expertly sliced and plated tableside. (According to partner Peter Tsebelis, Buca’s seafood is both “sensible” and “traceable,” meaning that care is taken to ensure that the fish served have been harvested in ways that aren’t environmentally destructive.) Similar to Bar Buca, the restaurant serves pastries and specialty coffees during the day, and brunch on weekends. Starting next week, a multi-course tasting menu will also be available.

The Drinks: Wine director Giuseppe Marchesini’s impressive list is populated by small-lot wines from remote regions in Italy, including several bottles that are totally unique to the restaurant.

The Place: Buca Yorkville is located in the condo tower attached to the Four Seasons hotel. Similar to its King Street siblings, the restaurant’s design is elegant and very contemporary. This new location has a slightly lighter, more feminine feel; instead of hardwood or concrete, the floors are made of white oak, and the place is sprinkled with gleaming metallic accents. The open kitchen at the back is flanked by a chef’s counter where diners can oversee the kitchen activity.