Toronto’s original izakaya is still the most fun, and the food remains great. A starter of marinated octopus in wasabi is spicy, tender, sweet and briny. Sharp ponzu and crunchy fried garlic accent the delicate flavour of seared salmon tataki. The one dud is a leaden squid-studded okonomiyaki pancake whose flavour gets lost under a sharp, too-salty tonkatsu sauce. Sapporo flows like a river, but the extensive sake list offers better palate cleansers between bites.