This midtown bistro aims to elevate Toronto’s expectations for Middle Eastern cuisine, trading greasy gyros and shawarma for dry-aged Ontario meats and fresh fish. A simple tabbouleh salad, made with the freshest parsley and the lightest lemon dressing, lives up to its namesake status. Mains are large and lush. The crisp, greaseless skin on the whole Mediterranean sea bass gives way to a moist interior, and four lamb chops—great value at $24—are juicy and tender, though bludgeoned with salt and pepper. Thick, garlicky labni outshines humdrum hummus. Belly dancing on Saturday nights is surprisingly unobtrusive.