At this elegant but unstuffy French restaurant in Bloor West Village, Montreal expat James Petrin (Salt Wine Bar) treats humble ingredients—offal, chicken tails, potatoes—with serious respect. Fried chicken livers, deliciously crunchy, sit in a decadent puddle of creamed leeks; lightly pickled shallots offer a piquant counterpoint. An ultra-creamy crab bisque is fragrant with saffron and thick enough to support a few crab beignets and a swirl of crème fraîche. The kitchen gets playful by introducing flavours from former French colonies including Vietnam, Louisiana, and, as in the roasted lamb shoulder with a minty chickpea ragoût, Morocco. For dessert, there’s a crème brûlée made with absinthe and a poached-pear tarte tatin doused in an addictive mulled wine reduction. The upstairs Fou Bar is a work in progress, but by summer the rooftop patio should be hopping.