The dream of the ’90s is alive in North Toronto: sesame-crusted ahi tuna, truffled frites, veal “two ways”—all the hits that were popular when this linen-draped restaurant first opened nearly 30 years ago. Standards remain high even if execution feels rote. Warm bread, swaddled in linen, and soft butter arrive with the house wine, an unoaked chardonnay. And appetizers include slice upon slice of heavily cured Irish salmon, with fat-cutting pickled beets and blood orange segments over a creamy corn purée. Fat lamb chops, big as steaks, get the Mediterranean treatment with chickpea falafels, charred Jerusalem artichokes and mild harissa. The Mondrian-esque arrangement of rhubarb jelly, poached strawberry, lime crémeux and lime- infused strawberry ice cream on a crisp, rectangular tart shell makes for a dramatic and complex finish.