The decade-old room is date central: every couple seems to be holding hands across their table. Chef Lorenzo Loseto’s Wagyu carpaccio, the tender beef cut wafer-thin, is nearly upstaged by pickled carrots, water buffalo yogurt, a wedge of house-made flatbread and a scattering of polenta. He surrounds a seared slab of buttery Arctic sea bass with curried spaetzle, pickled beets and puréed cauliflower with a cracker hat. A comparatively straightforward dessert of sugary blood-orange cream tart—coated in an ornately piped soft meringue, with sides of raspberry sorbet and a grapefruit-grape sauce—is an elegant combination of both sweet and tart, and the happiest marriage of the night. Closed Sunday and Monday nights.