It’s completely understandable that, walking into the narrow front room of chef Geoff Hopgood’s dark and cozy Haligonian joint, you might expect a whiff of briny Atlantic air. Instead, you’re greeted by staff who exude authentic East Coast warmth. The specials, like a lobster salad brightened with dollops of lemony aïoli and microgreens, are typically fresh, simple and fun, showcasing seasonal and responsibly harvested seafood from the Maritimes. Refined takes on Nova Scotian junk food round out the menu offerings, like oatcakes topped with bracing mackerel, fried sweetbreads served alongside slightly rubbery Digby scallops, and the signature garlicky-sweet donairs. Desserts are stylish and playful: a homemade toffee candy bar and a tremendous cloud of blueberry-streaked funnel cake that’s all golden-good fun.