Geoff Hopgood’s poshified Halifax junk food is as excellent as ever, but the dishes that delight us the most tend to pare back his signature kitsch. Oyster- and truffle-injected mayo amps up the umami of mustardy beef-heart tartare. A whole Nova Scotia lobster, served with hazelnut-tinged butter and piled with sautéed pea shoots, has luscious spring. The wine selection includes a few Ontario gems and unoaked old-world wines from Lebanon, Georgia and Greece (plus France and Italy), and they work well with the seafood. If you want a luxe lobster dinner without getting dressed up, this is the city’s best option by far. Closed Tuesday.