This raucous Parkdale joint is home to some seriously tasty barbecue. The evolving menu eschews the more experimental bites present when it first opened—gone is the Black Forest–style smoked duck with hoisin, and ribs topped with peanuts and chives—in favour of more standard barbecue fair, and the restaurant is better for it. The brisket sandwich may be one of the city’s best: tissue-thin slices of Montreal-style smoked beef are piled high on a soft roll and topped with sweet molasses-barbecue sauce, chipotle mayo and crispy fried onion strings. Tangy buffalo cauliflower, crowned with pickled celery, is another standout. No meal here is complete without a bourbon-forward cocktail and Crack Rolls—warm milk buns served with whipped butter accented by smoker drippings.