Walk behind the Dupont diner Rose and Sons, through a laneway, and you’re engulfed in a cloud of intoxicating charcoal smoke. Chef Anthony Rose and his crew slow-smoke ribs, chicken and honey-glazed rabbit over a firepit, and serve the meat with sides like pork and beans and potato salad. Brunch brings grilled pork belly and eggs, or chocolate banana bread topped with maple butter and berry compote. Diners sit an picnic tables in an open-air mess hall, drinking pitchers of cocktails and bottles of rosé made for the restaurant by Norman Hardie. In winter, the patio becomes a fully heated cabin, topped with canvas, lit by candles and strewn with blankets.