Partly owned by the team from Brassaii, the city’s latest steak house combines very good beef with an elegant environment and impressive cooking. Customers pass through a basement piano bar before going upstairs, and past a glassed-in dry-aging room to a comfortable dining room decorated in beige Ultrasuede and slate. Dull, unflattering lighting spoils the mood somewhat, but waiters are as smooth as the jazz, discussing chef Ben Gundy’s menu of ’60s-inspired treats with no trace of irony. Instead of bread, cheese-topped popovers are served with soft herb butter. An impeccable caesar salad is made from scratch, tableside. Lobster thermidor adds juicy cremini mushrooms to bulk up tender tail meat in a creamy sauce gratinéed with gruyère. Oysters are offered on the half shell or Rockefellered with pastis, parsley and garlic. The steak menu changes daily, with various cuts of Pennsylvania USDA prime and Idaho Wagyu beef, which are dry-aged on the premises. Prices range from $33 for a six-ounce USDA tenderloin to $93 for a richly marbled, aromatically meaty eight-ounce Wagyu, cooked in a Montague oven. Ponzu, chimichurri, and blue cheese with bacon sauces appear with the steak. Cheese Boutique offerings might be a better option than oddly gelatinous crème brûlée or a calamitous trifle of berries and meringue in cream soup. A talented sommelier guides diners through a suitably weighty but reasonably priced wine list. Mains $31–$94.