The outdoor patio overlooking a harbour inlet is charming on a warm summer night. Inside, the feel is equally cheerful, with orange walls, outsized statuary and plants, and a radio playing behind the wooden bar. The small menu of Italian standards and the equally truncated Italian wine list are dishearteningly unadventurous, but the affable owner can be trusted to find a more interesting bottle and to recommend whatever is freshest and best from the kitchen. Subtlety and simplicity are specialties: portobello mushrooms, for instance, thickly sliced and pan-fried until juicy, are ringed with arugula and shaved parmesan. Niagara prosciutto wrapped around ripe figs is even less complicated. Pastas might include perfectly timed penne with chunks of grilled chicken breast in a lightweight rosé sauce or the same pasta dressed with nothing more than cooked fresh tomato, basil and garlic. A mixed grill of shrimp, scallop and whitefish is nicely timed but needs oil and lemon to shine. House-made dessert is a sweet finale: fresh, boozy tiramisù is a reminder why it was once ubiquitous. Mains $13–$27.