David Lawrason’s Weekly Wine Pick: a classic bordeaux from the killer 2009 vintage

Château St. Georges 2009 St-Georges St-Émilion

$34.95 | Bordeaux | 90 points
Bordeaux was once the last word in fine red wine, but the rest of the world has overshadowed it for a while now. The very ripe 2009 vintage, however, might just put it back on top, and many great wines from the region are set to be released this fall in Ontario. This one’s from a consistently fine château near St. Émilion that has been making wine for centuries. It will educate first-timers to bordeaux’s subtle charm, and please those who have been drinking the classics for years. For the quality presented, the price is a fair one.

The taste: This merlot is impressive, quite complex, dense and well packed. It has subtle, rich aromas of black raspberry, cedar, vanilla, tobacco and leather—a classic bordeaux bouquet. It’s medium-bodied, nicely rich and svelte in texture, with some heat and tannin on the finish. Excellent length of flavour with raspberry jam and earthy notes.

How to drink it: It’s approachable now for those who can’t wait, but take time to decant—about an hour of breathing should do. Enjoy a few sips before dinner, then settle into something fairly complex and earthy, maybe with mushrooms. Nothing too heavy, though—this is after all quite a delicate wine. Best from 2013 to 2019.