Toronto’s six best local cheeses
Canada’s cheeses are competing against Old World classics at the city’s finest cheesemongers. Here, six stinky stunners
1. Monforte Dairy Halloumi
This sheep’s milk cheese is exceptional brushed with olive oil, grilled or pan-fried, then eaten hot; the crusty exterior gives way to a squeaky-chewy interior. Available March through November at various farmers’ markets, including St. Lawrence Market North (93 Front St. E., 416-392-7120) on Saturdays. $2.50/100g.
2. Glengarry Cheesemaking’s Lankaaster Gouda
About Cheese carries this pasteurized cow’s milk cheese from Ontario. It’s mellow enough to appeal to the stink-phobic, but complex enough to charm hardcore fromageophiles. The slightly sweet paste with a semi-firm texture makes for an awesome nibble or an upscale addition to a sandwich. $6.85/100g. 483 Church St. (at Wellesley St. E.), 416-925-8659.
3. Le Bleu d’Élizabeth
This organic, raw-milk cheese from Quebec’s Fromagerie du Presbytère is available at Thin Blue Line. It combines the mild mould of roquefort with the lush creaminess of a young gorgonzola. $7.60/100g. 93 Roncesvalles Ave. (at Pearson Ave.), 416-840-6966.
4. Handmade Salt Spring Island Blue Juliette Goat Cheese
A terrific goat’s milk cheese, this tangy number has timid blue notes and a creamy, slightly oozy paste that’s perfection when slathered on a crusty baguette. Luckily, Thin Blue Line carries those, too. $13.95/200g. 93 Roncesvalles Ave. (at Pearson Ave.), 416-840-6966.
5. Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar
La Fromagerie brings in this gauze-aged cheddar from P.E.I. The nutty flavour and grainy texture evoke a Dutch beemster, but it’s still an exceptional example of the cheesemaker’s art. $5.25/100g. 868 College St. (at Concord Ave.), 416-516-4278.
6. Fifth Town’s Cape Vessey
Not for the faint of heart, the 90-day-aged goat’s milk at The Cheese Boutique is for anyone who likes a little bit of flirtatious dominatrix in their cheese. There are pungent garlic notes, the paste is firm, and the grey, slightly creamy rind contributes to the noble rot. $7/100g. 45 Ripley Ave. (at South Kingsway), 416-762-6292.
I disagree with the clothbound cheddar choice. As for local cheddars, Chevre Noir is the best you will find. I’m drooling just thinking about it.
There’s nothing stinky about Halloumi.
I am surprised that Thunder Oaks Cheese from Thunder Bay, On. did not make the list. Their Smoked Gouda is to die for.
You can save alot of the price by ordering directly from the dairy or pay the big price @ The Cheese Boutique.
Since when are cheeses from Quebec and PEI considered “local”? Is this a “locally sold” article or “locally made” cheese article?
I just wanted to say a huge thankyou from Monforte for being on the list.
We look at cheesemaking as something we are just getting started in and know little about. We wouldn’t be in business without the support we have received from Toronto. Thanks so much, fondly, Ruth
If I have to fly for hours to get to the dairy at which the cheese was made, it ain’t “local”. Nevertheless, it really is something to celebrate that we have remarkable cheeses made at either end of the country and at so many points in between.
WEll, we know Cape Vessey is a non-mainstream goat cheese but never heard it described quite this way! We are all wondering if we should update our uniforms at the dairy! And cracking the whip may take on new connotations round FT! Thank you for all of us at FT for making our day and making us smile!
I realize this was quick take on the subject, but:
Maybe we could define local as say, from Ontario?
How do you miss Thunder Oak? Google it.
Haloumi is not stinky. It’s rather mild.
Cape Vessey is for the semi-faint of heart. It’s downright accessible for many who aren’t into goat cheese. I’d need to do the research on it, but it just might also be the most award-recognized cheese in it’s class. Google it.
Any chance Toronto Life could delve into the amazing stories behind some of these places? You could make a movie about Monforte’s story and you’d be hard pressed to find a company in any industry with more accreditation for doing good than Fifth Town. Both are way more than simply dairies.
Thanks,
B
I have to agree that this piece is really not about “local” cheese. If you are trying to say the best Canadian Cheeses then you may have a point. But Salt Spring Island is in BC, that is a 5 hour flight away from Toronto, as well as 2 ferry rides. The ecological footprint is huge, and while I love this cheese it seems like a poor choice if you are looking to eat local.
There are great cheese factories within a 3 hour drive of Toronto.
I like all of these cheesemakers products, and I wish Best Baa Dairy had also been included, they are in Fergus & make lovely hand made cheeses.
Ontario cheesemakers have a lot to offer, make a point to explore!
I have to say I agree also with the “local” issue. There are so many really local cheese producers that you missed…..like Ewenity, Back Forty, and Upper Canada cheese co. As a former cheese monger I would have to say that while all the cheeses you included are pretty fantastic, its a fail on calling them all local. Canada is a pretty huge place, god, even Ontario is bigger than some countries out there.
I’ve heard we pay more for cheese here in Canada than pretty much anywhere else in the world. Whereas in other countries cheese consumption has increased, as it seems it naturally would with growing populations, Canada has seen a drop as the prices are ridiculous.