Tip of the Isberg: Coca’s fate is in the hands of its one-time chef
When we asked whether Coca’s surprise shutdown signalled closure or reincarnation, we didn’t know that its management was wondering exactly the same thing. The now-shuttered restaurant will either reopen as an entirely new enterprise, or not at all. But there is some good news. If the spot has gone downhill since losing its signature chef, Nathan Isberg, it might make hipsters swoon again: estranged from Coca since an unceremonious split from investors back in November, Isberg was surprised to get a call asking him to come back and shape an entirely new venture in the same space. Burned by bad politics and immersed in new endeavours, though, the young chef now faces a dilemma. His choice may decide the project’s ruin or renewal.
The tide started to turn on Coca last summer. Isberg had been working at both Coca and Czehoski, but moved exclusively to the former in September ’08, along with an unnamed investor—one of Czehoski’s silent partners. The chef worked the floor at Coca as general manager, forgoing a salary to “get the wheels back on track.” The kitchen suffered; Isberg began to feel distanced from his craft just as the economy was shaking management. When the restaurant closed for a week in September, supposedly for a small renovation, the unnamed investor might have walked if it weren’t for Isberg’s urging to stay open. “He panicked at the state of restaurants in this town. He wanted out,” says the chef. Things seemed to have improved by October, with Isberg back in the kitchen. Then, in a bid to boost capital, the investor suggested inviting Ed Ho of Globe Bistro to invest. Frustrated, Isberg threatened to leave, claiming that he and Ho “have a different philosophy.” Despite these objections, the chef turned up for work one day in early November only to find that Ho had been signed, sealed and delivered. “I handed over the keys in that meeting,” he says. “It was very sudden.”
Out of a job, Isberg starting cooking at the Berkeley Church and focused on his studies in food security at U of T. Then, last week, a call came from the unnamed investor: Ho had reneged decided not to proceed with Coca, claiming there was “no meeting of the minds.” The unnamed investor promised “a fundamentally different restaurant” if Isberg came back. “I have the opportunity to do something I love, but I’m also one semester away from getting my BA.” Yet his choice may determine whether it’s round two or game over for Coca.
One thing is sure: if Isberg does go back, he won’t make the same mistakes. “Coca was so much someone else’s concept. I will go back only if I’m doing what I really love.” What does he love? Less pretension, more sustainable practices and, of course, quality food. An all-new Isberg-approved menu? We’ll sign on the dotted line—or at least the credit card slip—for that.
I guess we will all have to wait in anticipation. Luckly I have frequented Coca and Czehoski’s while Isberg was at the helm. I have left the beighbourhood, and didn’t even know the doors ha closed.
It has been some of the best meals I have had in the city.
Welcome Nathan’s coming back only if he is ready to be honest and communicate. No lies any more. No cheating any more.
You might want to get your facts straight re: who’s not communicating with whom. Take a look at who has reneged/gone under and who has the talent, skills and integrity to surge ahead, despite the obstacle course in his way.
Ugh! Deal with it off line. If you can’t, then just ignore him, because you have to know, you’re giving an ego power simply by giving it the time of day. And people, perspective here… the article is about food. Expensive and certainly very yummy food, but it ain’t the second coming.
Looks as though Track Changes from MSWord left tracks in this posting; see the edit around “reneged.”
Pamela Capraru
(ex–Chief of Copy Editing
Toronto Life)
Regarding the corrections to this post:
Actually, the tracked marks around “reneged” represent an update to the information in this story – not a copy editing error. By showing the editorial correction with underlining and strikethroughs, we (the editors) are showing that our posts can be updated and made more accurate in real time, even once the information has been posted.
Thank you for your concern.
As a long time admirer of Nathan’s culinary prowess I sincerely hope he comes back to a kitchen in Toronto. Although given the drama at Coca, and the stinking failure is became after his departure, I can see why Nathan is very hesitant to come back.