Review: Trinity Taverna brings upmarket Greek food to the Beach
Trinity Taverna ★½
1681 Lake Shore Blvd. E., 416-698-3456
At this revamped Greek palace on the boardwalk, a seafood counter spills over with glossy fresh fish and oysters, the ceiling is thatched with thousands of white birch branches, and 600 seats fit snugly into every cranny of the massive room. It’s all very laid back, except for the cranked-up music that channels a South Beach nightclub. The food is steeply priced and, for the most part, worth it. Chef Pierre Restivo knows how to grill a fish: a whole silver porgy is flaky and sweet in its simple olive oil, oregano and lemon dressing. Among the many mezze, the kaltsounakia—crunchy phyllo stuffed with pine nuts, creamed feta and wilted spinach—stand out, and the desserts are surprisingly creative. Karithopita, a homey walnut cake, is elegantly done with a layer of crème brûlée on top and a pool of brandy-infused chocolate beneath.