Review: Sud Forno, a quaint Italian bakery from the owners of Terroni

Sud Forno
716 Queen St. W., 416-504-7667

The new bakery from the owners of Terroni, two storefronts east of the flagship restaurant, is a great stop on the way to work (for freshly fried bomboloni) or on the way home (for panini). The head baker, Fabio Papa, emigrated from Campagna last winter to run the shop, and he greets customers warmly with a thick accent as he stacks loaves of bread alongside the pastry case loaded with custard-filled cakes, cannoli and biscottini. The sourdough is wonderfully crusty and chewy—the perfect loaf to bring to a dinner party—and the pizzas are piled with quality toppings like porchetta and caramelized onions. (They don’t measure up to Terroni’s sit-down pies, but they easily best nearby takeout slices.) The gelato case includes a dazzlingly simple ricotta-fig flavour.