Review: The fusion cooking at Patois is bold, ambitious and strangely satisfying

Review: The fusion cooking at Patois is bold, ambitious and strangely satisfying

(Image: Caroline Aksich)
(Image: Caroline Aksich) (Image: Caroline Aksich)
 

Patois ★½
794 Dundas St. W., 647-350-8999

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The latest fusion to hit the Toronto dining scene is Asian-Caribbean, courtesy of chef Craig Wong, whose Chinese family lived in Jamaica for three generations. The room feels just like an island patio—it’s loud, kitschy, crowded and sweltering. Wong swirls together jerk, hoisin and five-spice into strangely satisfying combinations. Our favourite are the kimchee potstickers: the bundles burst with a tangy medley of bacon, kimchee sour cream and caramelized onions. A head of deep-fried cauliflower brings burnished, crackling florets and a centre that’s practically creamy. Wong is ambitious with his flavours, but occasionally has trouble with balance, as in the ackee and saltfish fritters that have terrific crunch, but are salty enough to burn your mouth. Closed Tuesday.

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