Review: At King West’s Wilbur Mexicana, grilled veggies are the way to go

Review: At King West’s Wilbur Mexicana, grilled veggies are the way to go

(Image: Gizelle Lau)
(Image: Gizelle Lau) (Image: Gizelle Lau)
 

Wilbur Mexicana
552 King St. W., 416-792-1878

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Somewhere on the spectrum between Mexican fast food chains and hipster taco joints is Wilbur on King West. Diners order at the counter, grab bottles of Mexican cerveza (or craft sodas from a state-of-the-art fountain) and take a seat in a sleek room with floor-to-ceiling windows, subway tile and dark wood accents. There’s a self-serve hot sauce and salsa bar, with house-made condiments like a tart pineapple-habanero salsa—the perfect pairing for a grilled avocado taco layered with feta-like cotija cheese and a smoky-creamy chipotle crema. The pulled pork burrito is dry and under-salted, but grilled Mexican street corn smothered in more crema and cotija is a savoury-sweet winner. No desserts.

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