Review: Colette Grand Café is expensive, conservative and mostly good

Review: Colette Grand Café is expensive, conservative and mostly good

(Image: Erin Leydon)
(Image: Erin Leydon) (Image: Erin Leydon)
 

Colette Grand Café ★½
550 Wellington St. W., 647-348-7000

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The new restaurant in the Thompson Hotel is ultra-polished and styled after an airy Riviera brasserie. It’s run by the Chase Hospitality Group and radiates—for better or worse, depending on your dining tastes—a corporate vibe. Chef Michael Steh’s food is expensive (inflated hotel prices are in full effect), conservative and mostly good. Lobster spaghetti brings two fat hunks of buttery shellfish, afroth with lobster-stock foam and sitting on chewy fresh pasta, but the sauce lacks depth and pepper heat. Better is duck magret, cooked to lush red in the centre and served with a vinegary rhubarb compote and a brown-buttery Jerusalem artichoke purée—three elements that burst with umami when forked together.

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