Review: Blackbird Baking Co. brings heavenly baked goods to Kensington Market
Blackbird Baking Co.
172 Baldwin St., 416-546-2280
Inside a stripped-down Kensington Market shop, there’s alchemy at work. Baker and owner Simon Blackwell (backed by investors including his former roommate and N.Y.C. super-chef April Bloomfield of the Spotted Pig) creates exquisite baguettes that are crispy on the outside with just the right amount of toast, and bubbly on the inside with a faintly sweet crumb. Airy focaccia are studded with salty za’atar and black cumin. Organic spelt and flax sourdough loaves balance hearty virtue with yeasty pleasure. The best of the rotating daily sandwiches is summer sausage (from the same Mennonite farmer who supplies Blackbird’s flour), pickles and grainy mustard on baguette.