Review: Ramen Raijin, a downtown noodle shop specializing in milky pork-bone ramen

Toronto’s noodle revolution continues with Raijin, a Vancouver transplant specializing in tonkotsu ramen. Instead of combining pork, chicken and fish bones to make their broth—the protocol at most ramen joints—the cooks at Raijin use only pork and let the bones simmer for 12 hours. The result is totally unique: a milky broth that delivers subtle satisfaction rather than overwhelming richness or spice. Noodle nerds seeking more intense spice should try miso ramen, a nutty pork broth studded with explosive bronze pearls of chili oil. The chashu plate, an excellent companion to any bowl, brings tender barbecued pork on a heap of tart, ponzu-laced bean sprouts and luscious pork belly with a sweet caramelized crust from the blowtorch’s blast.