Review: Pukka brings modern Indian cuisine to St. Clair West’s restaurant row

Review: Pukka brings modern Indian cuisine to St. Clair West’s restaurant row

(Image: Valerie Howes)
(Image: Valerie Howes) (Image: Valerie Howes)
 

Pukka ★½
778 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-342-1906

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The latest addition to St. Clair West’s burgeoning restaurant row blends polished bistro decor (exposed brick, industrial track lights, banquette seating) with modern Indian cooking. The chefs—Scaramouche veteran ­Cornel D’Silva and Amaya alumni Kirti Singh and Dinesh Butola—look to Goa for some of their more inspired dishes, including a creamy scallop-shrimp curry and pork vindaloo braised in a puckery blend of garlic, ginger, chilies and red wine vinegar. Chicken dishes, like the too-sweet ­butter chicken and the too-sour tikka, could use some fine-­tuning. Luckily, Pukka nails the details: the list of sweet, light wines is well suited to heat and spice, and fluffy naan is baked to order in the kitchen’s tandoor.

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