Introducing: Portland Variety, the new tapas restaurant on King West from the owners of Le Gourmand
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Name: Portland Variety
Neighbourhood: King West
Contact Info: 587 King St. W., 416-368-5151, @PortlandVariety
Owner: Ralf Madi and Milton Nunes of Le Gourmand
Chef: Jo Castrinos, formerly of Patria and Splendido
The Food : For sit-down meals in the restaurant’s dining room, chef Castrinos borrows from French, North African, Spanish and even Greek cuisine to create a menu of not-quite-traditional tapas plates, like grilled octopus with smoked tomatoes and a whole sliced rib eye served with caramelized onions. Casual snackers can pair their cocktails with a rotating selection of pinxtos (small Spanish snacks) in the front café area, where tiny skewered bites are artfully displayed on the marble bar.
The Drinks : The cocktail list is heavy on exotic ingredients—“peach caviar,” for instance, and “orange pekoe foam.” The most unusual drink may be the Tequila Bong—it’s a jug of Tromba tequila infused with hickory-mesquite smoke (using a hand-held food smoker), then blended with pineapple and jalapeño-infused agave. Other options include wine, beer and three types of sangria.
The Place : Like nearby Bar Buca, Portland Variety aims to attract customers at all hours. By day, the space operates as a casual café and lunch counter. At 5 p.m., it transforms into a bustling tapas restaurant. Don’t expect flamboyant decor, though: the dark-walled room is handsome enough to fit right in on the King West strip.
279840 <strong>Portland Variety</strong> is located at 587 King West, at Portland. The restaurant is open all day, from 7 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-01-e1403550850777-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-01.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-01.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-01/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-01 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279844 Mixologist <strong>Kristopher Bahamondes</strong> serves up the Sour Heart, a tart whiskey sour made with bourbon, lemon juice, fresh apricot purée and egg white ($14) (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-05-e1403550829605-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-05.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-05.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-05/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-05 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279845 The Tequila Bong blends lemon juice, jalapeño-infused agave and tequila infused with hickory-mesquite smoke ($15) (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-06-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-06.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-06.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-06/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-06 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279847 In the evening, the front café turns into a tapas bar (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-08-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-08.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-08.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-08/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-08 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279848 All tapas options range from $2 to $10 (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-09-e1403550808452-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-09.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-09.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-09/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-09 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279849 Gilda (named after the <strong>Rita Hayworth</strong> character) is a classic <em>pinxto</em> served in bars throughout San Sebastian. It’s a simple combination of pickled peppers, anchovies and olives on a toothpick (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-10-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-10.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-10.jpg 667 1000 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-10/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-10 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279850 <em>Jamon Iberico de Bellota,</em> the finest Spanish cured ham. $15 for a small plate and $40 for a large sharing plate (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-11-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-11.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-11.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-11/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-11 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279851 (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-12-e1403550758697-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-12.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-12.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-12/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-12 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279841 Sit-down meals take place in the handsome dining room (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-02-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-02.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-02.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-02/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-02 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279843 (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-04-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-04.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-04.jpg 667 1000 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-04/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-04 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279852 Cassava frites seasoned with salt and parsley ($7) (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-13-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-13.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-13.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-13/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-13 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279853 Shrimp in chili-garlic oil, served with bread for dipping ($15) (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-14-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-14.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-14.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-14/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-14 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279854 Baby eggplant with <em>confit byaldi,</em> a variation on French ratatouille ($7) (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-15-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-15.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-15.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-15/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-15 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279855 Grilled octopus with smoked tomatoes, olive oil and lemon ($18) (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-16-e1403550789516-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-16.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-16.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-16/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-16 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279856 Porcini-rubbed rib eye with caramelized onions ($45) (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-17-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-17.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-17.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-17/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-17 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
279857 A sweet way to finish a meal: sugar-dusted beignets (Image: Jackie Pal) Introducing: Portland Variety https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-18-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-18.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-18.jpg 1000 667 [] https://torontolife.com/food/portland-variety-toronto-restaurants/slide/portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-18/ portland-variety-toronto-restaurant-18 0 0
(Image: Jackie Pal)
Pintxos are Basque, not Spanish. The photos of the food on the bar counter look very much like pintxos, *Basque* style. Pintxos and tapas are not the same and are not interchangeable concepts.
AWFUL IN EVERY ASPECT! The food was mediocre at best in the front snack area and the dinner menu items we tried lacked flavour and creativity. They are clearly trying to do too many things out of this place. The snacks on the bar when you walk in weren’t fresh and the bartender didn’t know anything about the food they serve. After this when we sat in the dining room for dinner, the short bald black manager/host was so rude to my husband and I when we asked why our entrees had taken almost an hour and the place was barely half full. Overall food and service was some of the worst we have had in the city. What a terrible addition to our lovely King West neighbourhood
get over yourself
And you can bite me. If TOLife wants to write about food, it should at least get basic terminology correct.