Introducing: Dynasty Chinese Cuisine, the downtown dim sum staple reborn
Last fall saw the quiet shuttering of a couple of downtown dim sum giants: Bright Pearl in Chinatown and Dynasty Chinese Cuisine on Bloor (in both cases, restaurant owners and property owners were butting heads over the lease). While Bright Pearl is still “closed for renovations,” tourists and dim sum lovers alike breathed a sign of relief when Dynasty reopened—just in time for the Christmas rush—at the Yorkville location where True once served up organic, local fare.
The new Dynasty location is a refreshing change, with bright neutrals replacing the old pink tablecloths, and a new subway-tiled bar. While some elements have been preserved from True’s design, the plush white banquettes and large tables are out, and smaller dim sum–friendly tables are in. The pretty beige chair covers are a nice alternative to the typical black-framed chairs that scream ’80s Chinese restaurant.
Of course, it wasn’t the tables or chairs that kept regular Dynasty patrons lined up outside the old location—it was the grub. And just like the 15-minute waits at peak dim sum, lunch and dinner hours, the food remains unchanged, featuring such old favourites as the steamed supreme har gow, steamed BBQ pork buns, crispy spring roll with chicken and taro and flaky baked egg tarts (all $5.35). To accommodate the restaurant’s new location, dim sum prices have gone up a bit (small dishes $3.25, medium $5.35, large $5.95, extra-large, $6.75 and extra-extra-large $7.95).
Meanwhile, the old Dynasty location at the Colonnade has been taken over by the Charles Khabouth’s Ink Entertainment and is slated to become Le Bistro, a casual two-floor Parisian-style eatery with a large street-side courtyard just in time for patio season.
Dynasty Chinese Cuisine, 69 Yorkville Ave. (at Bellair St.), 416-923-3323, dynasty.sites.toronto.com.