Best New Restaurants 2015: #12, Branca

Best New Restaurants 2015: #12, Branca

Branca | 1727 Dundas St. W., 416-519-8165

An Argentine restaurant is only as good as its meat. Some of the city’s finest is slow-roasted, braised and charred to perfection in a custom-designed cookhouse in the yard behind this Brockton Village spot. Chef Kanida Chey and his helpers begin each day chopping logs for a pit grill, over which they hang suckling pig, lamb leg, Mennonite chicken and fat-streaked accordions of ribs. It’s rustic gaucho fare, but the restaurant is refined, just two rows of marble tables, a small bar and the glow of the sun setting on the parkette across the street. As word has travelled, there seem to be more South American expats making it their go-to, chattering over long dinners, ecstatic over a taste of home.