Five amazing bottles from Ontario’s new crop of big, bold red wines
Five amazing bottles from Ontario’s new crop of big, bold red wines
By David Lawrason | November 15, 2013
By David Lawrason | 11/15/2013
Rising temperatures are remaking Ontario wine, producing grand reds never seen in our cool climate
Big reds are booming. The province’s cool climate and short growing season are known for producing lightweight pinot noir and gamay, not bold shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. The hot 2010 vintage, however, overturned conventional wisdom. Bordeaux grape varieties, including cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot, flourished with ripe flavours and richer textures. Niagara even produced a few excellent shirazes. But global warming can’t take all the credit. After several years of experimentation, winemakers are increasingly savvy and turning out more refined versions every year. Here, five big, bold homegrown reds.
See the five best Ontario red wines »
245980 <p><strong>$32 | Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula | 90 points</strong></p> Cabernet franc has long been Ontario’s leading big red, but maturing vines in the warmest sites are raising it to new levels. This is a refined cab franc with classic flavours of berry, currant, herbs, tobacco and earth. Best 2014 to 2017. Vintages 130997. Tawse Laundry Vineyard 2010 Cabernet Franc Tawse Laundry Vineyard 2010 Cabernet Franc https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A001-e1384205006791-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A001.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A001.jpg 416 624 [] https://torontolife.com/food/ontario-red-wines/slide/ontario-red-wines-a001/ ontario-red-wines-a001 0 0
245981 <p><strong>$34 | St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula | 90 points</strong></p><br />
Merlot is susceptible to cold weather. However, it’s now tied with cab franc as Niagara’s most planted red grape. Ravine’s fine version is much like a Saint-Émilion, with ripe berry fruit integrated with chocolate, cedar and mineral notes. Best 2014 to 2018. <a href="http://www.ravinevineyard.com/" target="_blank">Ravinevineyard.com.</a> Ravine Vineyard 2010 Merlot Ravine Vineyard 2010 Merlot https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A002-e1384204967313-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A002.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A002.jpg 416 624 [] https://torontolife.com/food/ontario-red-wines/slide/ontario-red-wines-a002/ ontario-red-wines-a002 0 0
245982 <p><strong>$55.20 | Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula | <br />
91 points</strong></p><br />
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This blend, launched in 1999, was the first wine <br />
to prove Niagara could make big reds. It’s now hit great precision and near-perfect ripeness, with currant, raspberry, tobacco and oak spice. Best 2015 to beyond 2020. <a href="http://www.triuswines.com/" target="_blank">Triuswines.com.</a> Trius 2010 Grand Red Trius 2010 Grand Red https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A003-e1384204988852-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A003.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A003.jpg 416 624 [] https://torontolife.com/food/ontario-red-wines/slide/ontario-red-wines-a003/ ontario-red-wines-a003 0 0
245983 <p><strong>$23 | Niagara-on-the-Lake | 89 points</strong></p><br />
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Late-ripening cabernet sauvignon is not supposed to work in Niagara, but 2010 produced several great ones. This organically grown version is mid-weight and mellow. It has a youthful, floral bloom with raspberry fruit, background oak spice, a touch of earth and tobacco. Best 2014 to 2016. Vintages 193573. Southbrook 2010 Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon Southbrook 2010 Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A004-e1384204914229-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A004.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A004.jpg 416 624 [] https://torontolife.com/food/ontario-red-wines/slide/ontario-red-wines-a004/ ontario-red-wines-a004 0 0
245984 <p><strong>$20 | Niagara Peninsula | 90 points</strong></p><br />
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With its hot climate, B.C. dominates Canadian syrah/shiraz. However, maturing Ontario vines and the hot 2010 season created a dense structure and powerful flavours of plum, violet, wood smoke and classic black pepper. Best 2014 to 2018. LCBO 317941. Jackson-Triggs 2010 Niagara Estate Grand Reserve Shiraz Jackson-Triggs 2010 Niagara Estate Grand Reserve Shiraz https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A005-e1384204950476-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A005.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ontario-red-wines-A005.jpg 416 624 [] https://torontolife.com/food/ontario-red-wines/slide/ontario-red-wines-a005/ ontario-red-wines-a005 0 0
I’m particularly fond of the Cali quality and depth of flavour of the Cab Sauv from Pondview in Niagara and the Cab Franc from Stanners in PEC. Both these wines taste like they should cost a lot more. A few years back I never would have believed these kinds of reds were possible in Ontario.
Is it me or does David write about the same producers all the time? I want to discover more from the LCBO and Ontario. help?