David Lawrason picks nine new Tuscan reds to splurge on this fall

David Lawrason picks nine new Tuscan reds to splurge on this fall

(Illustration: Jack Dylan)

Tuscany is Italy’s most famous wine region. At its centre, enveloping Florence and Siena, is Chianti, the hilly, vineyard-lined area responsible for the country’s signature wine. Made primarily with sangiovese grapes, Chianti is tangy with tart-edged redcurrant and earthy flavours that evoke the comfort of lazy, casual pasta dinners. But nowadays, there’s much more to Tuscany than rustic Chianti. Italian vintners have planted French varietals such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah.Whether blended with sangiovese or used on their own, they produce smoother, more sophisticated and complex reds (colloquially known as supertuscans). And the warmer coastal regions—Bolgheri, Maremma and Grosseto—are turning out big, rich, modern wines that could easily pass for New World reds. Several of these exciting new Tuscans are now available at the LCBO. The best ones are refined while still capturing the old-school vitality that made the region famous.

Antinori 2005 Pian Delle Vigne
Antinori 2005 Pian Delle Vigne $60 | Brunello di Montalcino | 93 points The powerful, classic sangiovese-based reds of Montalcino age long. This one is plush and refined with a maturing garnet brick colour and fragrant, complex aromas of dried cherry, tomato, herbs, tobacco and leather. It’s ready to enjoy now or any time over the next 10 years. Vintages. LCBO 651141
Frescobaldi 2009 Castiglioni Chianti
Frescobaldi 2009 Castiglioni Chianti $15 | Tuscany | 88 points From a 1,000-year-old Frescobaldi estate, this deeply coloured young red is a blend of sangiovese, cabernet and merlot. It catches essential Chianti vibrancy with blackcurrant jam, green cedar and tobacco flavours. The finish is dry, tannic and slightly green. Chill lightly. Best 2013 to 2016. LCBO 545319
Gabbiano 2007 Chianti Classico
Gabbiano 2007 Chianti Classico $17 | Tuscany | 88 points Everything about this medium- bodied Chianti is traditional. It has tart but maturing ripe currant fruit, as well as persistent licorice, leather and olive aromas. There’s a sour edge to it, with some tannins. The finish is dry. It’s not ideal for sipping on its own, but it pairs nicely with pastas, poultry and red meats. LCBO 219808
Luce Della Vite 2008 Lucee
Luce Della Vite 2008 Lucee $100 | Tuscany | 95 points This blend of sangiovese and merlot is an iconic supertuscan. It offers fabulous aromas of lifted ripe blackcurrant, cedar, licorice, black olive and mocha that are all seamlessly sewn together. It’s dense, youthful and chewy. The length is outstanding. Best 2014 to 2020. Vintages. LCBO 685263
Monte Antico 2007 Sangiovese Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
Monte Antico 2007 Sangiovese Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon $16 | Tuscany | 87 points With a rare (for Italy) screw-cap, plus merlot and cab blended in, this red is modern in design but old-school Chianti at heart. It’s light- to medium-bodied, fresh and savoury, with flavours of blackcurrant, spicy clove, vanilla and mocha. Some sinew and greenness on the finish. Vintages. LCBO 69377
Ornellaia 2008
Ornellaia 2008 $185 | Bolgheri Superiore | 94 points From an estate in the Napa-like Bolgheri region, this gorgeous, pure merlot-cab blend is one the world’s most collected reds. It’s full-bodied, creamy and smooth, with aromas of ripe blackberries, cassis, mocha, herbs, olives and pencil lead. Age until 2015, or keep for 20 years. Vintages. LCBO 722470
Poliziano 2007
Poliziano 2007 $26 | Vino Nobile di Montepulciano | 90 points The hill town of Montepulciano is known for a darker, tougher, more tannic breed of sangiovese-based red, and you can feel the grit and tension in this one. Flavours of fresh herbs, blackcurrants, woodsmoke and coffee beans follow through to great length. Best 2013 to 2018. Vintages. LCBO 988055
Rocca Delle Macìe 2008 Campo Maccione
Rocca Delle Macìe 2008 Campo Maccione $12 | Maremma | 87 points Maremma, in Tuscany’s warmer south, is an exciting new region for plush reds. This red is great value with a bright, generous nose of sangiovese, sour cherry, rhubarb and leathery notes. It’s plump with a sour-edged finish and soft tannin. Best 2012 to 2015. LCBO 253831
Volpaia 2008
Volpaia 2008 $22 | Chianti Classico | 89 points Chianti’s tension and vibrancy come from sangiovese grown in cool weather at high altitudes, and the Volpaia estate is among the highest in Italy. Expect lovely, lifted aromas of redcurrant, fresh herbs and oak. It’s delicious and lighter bodied than most, and it has fine tannin. Chill lightly. Vintages. LCBO 953828
Scores: David Lawrason assigns scores on a 100-point scale. They reflect a wine’s overall quality. A rating of 95 to 100 is outstanding; 90 to 94 excellent; 85 to 89 very good; 80 to 84 good.