November 2005
Spice World
Canada's most acclaimed cookbook writers on their almost accidental success By Sasha Chapman
Image credit: Finn O'Hara
“Last night I dreamt that Julia Child was directing a Batman movie and I was crew.” It’s 10 o’clock in the morning, and Jeffrey Alford is squatting on the back steps of the Chinatown Victorian he shares with his wife and collaborator, Naomi Duguid. The 51-year-old—who has spent much of the past three decades travelling in Asia—has little use for chairs, a fact reinforced by the furnishings inside, where Thai pillows stand in for the usual loveseats. The kitchen shelves are lined with Mason jars of dried beans and rices; a poster in the bathroom advertises a pot-smoking den in Kathmandu. Duguid, holding court from a peeling, child-sized green chair, wrapped in a sarong and bedecked in clattering bangles and mismatched earrings, breaks out into peals of laughter, her clear turquoise eyes crinkling at the corners. Like the late grande dame of French cooking, Duguid has presence, and seems even taller than her five-foot-nine-inch frame.
The caped crusader aside, Alford’s dream is not as far-fetched as it sounds. With his wife, he appeared on Child’s television series, Baking With Julia, in 2000 and contributed recipes to a book of the same name. The two are our country’s most internationally acclaimed cookbook authors, amassing awards the way the rest of us collect seashells. They’ve published five books to date, four of them best-sellers. Flatbreads and Flavours and Hot Sour Salty Sweet took the James Beard Cookbook of the Year Award, the highest culinary honour in the U.S., not to mention numerous accolades in Canada. Seductions of Rice won Cuisine Canada’s top medal. Four books have been picked up by the Book of the Month Club, each a best-seller.
Their success has been almost accidental, and no one seems more amazed by it than Alford and Duguid. For decades, they have resisted building equity and careers in the usual manner. Instead, they roamed where they pleased, with and without their two sons, Dominic and Tashi (now 17 and 15), to some of the least accessible corners of the world: watching the moon rise over Mount Rakaposhi in Pakistan, staying in bamboo huts in a small village in southeastern Sri Lanka. Befriending locals, they recorded recipes and captured their surroundings through words and pictures. The results are a sumptuous blending of genres; coffee table gorgeous, they are part exotic travel guide, part gastro porn. And the recipes don’t just look good, they also work—one reason they are often included in Food & Wine’s annual Best of the Best.
In their latest, Mangoes and Curry Leaves, out this month, they journey to the subcontinent in search of disappearing arts (building a tandoor oven out of mud) and arcane ingredients (Maldive fish). It’s not exactly mass market material. But what keeps their books accessible is the tone: relaxed and personal, never academic.
Alford and Duguid met at the Snow Land Hotel in Lhasa, Tibet, in September 1985. Duguid, on leave from her labour law practice in Toronto, had already decided she didn’t want to go back to her job. Her family’s roots are in England and France, but she grew up in Ottawa in a house plastered with maps. “There was always a sense that the world is larger than you are,” she explains. “You saved your money for the essentials: travel and books.”
Alford, originally from Laramie, Wyoming, had just finished a master’s in creative writing (his thesis was on bread and travel) at the University of Wyoming and was preparing to cycle across the Himalayas on the newly opened road to Kathmandu. “So, you know, we fell in love and decided to be together,” he explains softly, with a westerner’s unhurried lilt. “And then he pedalled down the road,” adds Duguid, finishing his sentence.
They met up in Kathmandu in a few weeks and were married six months later. Afterward, while riding their bicycles down another newly opened road, the Karakoram highway from western China to Pakistan, Alford proposed writing a book on flatbreads. Duguid eagerly accepted.
Since then, they have shared every aspect of a book’s creation, from writing and recipe collecting to photography. For years, this unorthodox MO confounded their editors at such publications as Bon Appétit and Food & Wine. Their unified voice means that the reader never knows whether an anecdote comes from Alford or Duguid. But somehow it works. A marriage of true minds admits no impediment.








