Illustration by Maurice Vellekoop

Portuguese winemaker António Maçanita has just launched a slick Aussie-style blended wine called Sexy. While such a blatant marketing ploy is decidedly unsexy, it does grab attention, which is the whole point. Portugal needs sexy if it’s ever going turn us on to its cache of exciting new flavours and textures from its indigenous grape varieties. There is the soaring florality and deep, brooding fruit of touriga nacional; the fragrant, gentle spice of castelão; the fiery warmth of aragonês; and the cool autumn orchard fragrance of the white alvarinho. If you’ve never tasted them, it’s because Portuguese winemakers have been too shy and conservative to bully their way into the international market. But they should take on the big guns, such as Aussie shiraz and California chardonnay; they have a lot to flaunt. When the tiny Atlantic nation joined the European Union in 1986, cash subsidies flowed into the wine industry, which smartly focused on upgrading and modernizing vineyards and winemaking with native grapes. The rugged Douro Valley, already famed for making exquisite sweet ports, has started producing excellent dry table wine. And that quality is now flowing southward through such neighbouring regions as Dão, Beiras and Bairrada, onto the coast in Estremadura and Terras do Sado, and into the arid southern reaches of Alentejo. At the International Value Wine Awards in June, which judged more than 1,000 wines under $25, there were only two Portuguese entries. The quality and value now coming out of Portugal could have rocked that competition. From northern Portugal to the south, here’s a road map to currently or soon-to-be-available wines.

Caves Aliança 2005 Vista TN
$13.10 | Beiras | 88 points
The TN on the label stands for touriga nacional, Portugal’s famed grape. Its low-yield, late-ripening tendencies frustrate growers but reward imbibers with concentration, richness and longevity. The excellent 2005 vintage offers amazing value. Sweet blackberry fruit, fresh basil and vanilla charms. Full bodied and lush, with dry tannin and good length. Best 2009 to 2012. LCBO 613919

RED
Quinta do Crasto 2006 Crasto
$19.95 | Douro Valley | 91 points
Quinta do Crasto revolutionized Douro winemaking. From a traditional blend of touriga nacional, tinta roriz, touriga franca and the hearty tinta barroca comes a vibrant red with perfect cherry fruit, embellished with caraway, cedar, leather and fennel notes. Medium weight and juicy, with excellent length. Drink now or age five years. Vintages, August 30. LCBO 81588

Quinta dos Quatro Ventos 2005
$19.95 | Douro Valley | 90 points
Tinta roriz dominates this fine blended red. Generous aging for a year in French and Russian oak gives it a savoury tone. Very lifted spicy, cedary nose with licorice and dried fruit. The powerful flavour and elegant texture are its main appeal. Now to 2013. Vintages. LCBO 902742

Caves Aliança 2006 Foral
$8.45 | Douro Valley | 85 points
Roriz grapes are blended with fragrant touriga franca and tinta barroca in a lighter red that manages exuberance and composure beyond its paltry price. Generous blackberry, dried herbs, tobacco and chocolate on the nose; medium bodied with good acidity, pepper and tannin on the palate. While it doesn’t have the length of more expensive wines, it’s the perfect accompaniment for barbecued fare. LCBO 239046

Sogrape 2004 Duque de Viseu
$12.95 | Dão | 86 points
From the leading modern Carvalhais estate comes a blend of touriga nacional, tinta roriz and fragrant alfrocheiro preto. There’s an almost northern Ontario ambience in wines from the evergreen-clad Dão region, with cedar bough, plum-fig fruit, leather and mineral complexity. Mid-weight, with surprising elegance for the price. Now to 2011. LCBO 546309

Quinta da Vegia 2005 Reserva
$49.75 | Dão | 93 points
This exciting, unique blend of old vine touriga nacional and aragonês features notes of fragrant pine and blackcurrant fruit with unique coriander and ginseng that are redolent of vermouth. Full bodied, taut, sourish and tannic. Don’t plan it as a sipper at your next party—try it in a decade instead. Outstanding length. Best 2011 to 2018. Vintages, September 13. LCBO 85175

Quinta de Camarate 2005
$15.95 | Terras do Sado | 89 points
Produced by Fonseca, the leading winery on the Setúbal peninsula, south of Lisbon, this perennial best buy blends touriga nacional, aragonês and the local spicy castelão. Aromatic fireworks include cherry pie, cedar, roasted chestnut and tobacco. Initially smooth and sweet, it’s slightly astringent on the finish. Very good length. Best 2010 to 2012. Vintages. LCBO 357962

Casa de Santa Vitoria 2005
$17.95 | Alentejo | 88 points
From the hot southern reaches near the Spanish border, this is a very soft, ripe, almost California-feeling red based on aragonês and trincadeira. Leathery aromas with dried fig, chocolate and dried herb complexity. Quite full and smooth, with a warm, peppery finish. Drink now to 2010. Vintages. LCBO 70896

Fita Preta 2006 Sexy
$23.55 | Alentejo | 87 points
A blend of 50 per cent touriga nacional with aragonês, cabernet and syrah, grown in hot Alentejo. It displays an almost Aussie-like nose, with lifted, smoky clove and raspberry pie notes. A bit sweet, rounded and warm, with dusty tannin and loads of spice and woodsy character on the finish. Syrah’s tarry quality pokes through. Very good length. www.lesommelier.com.

WHITE
Aveleda 2007 Fonte
$8.45 | Vinho Verde | 85 points
This northern maritime region blends several grapes to create Portugal’s famous slightly fizzy white. Its mild nose shows green apple and salty minerality. Light bodied and spritzy, with a grapefruit finish. Great summer quaffer. LCBO 5322