Quest
February 2008
Bone Collector
In search of the city’s best ribs By Signe Langford
Basic instinct: side ribs at Foxley's
Image credit: Margaret Mulligan
Few foods allow us to channel our inner Neanderthal quite like a pile of bone-sucking, finger-licking ribs. Not surprisingly, this unbeatable combination of flesh, fire and spice turns up in almost every cuisine. Here are the city’s best international offerings.
| THE PLACE | THE GOODS | THE VERDICT |
|---|---|---|
| Foxley 207 Ossington Ave., 416-534-8520 |
Two fat strips of pork side ribs are marinated in lemon grass, kaffir lime, ginger and chili before grilling and glazing. A simple garnish of crispy fried shallot chips echoes a key ingredient. $8 | Tapas-style menu means tapas sizing—don’t expect a Fred Flintstone portion. But do expect huge flavour and spicy, sticky, juicy perfection. The finger bowl is a thoughtful touch and an invitation to get messy |
| Backalley Woodfire BBQ and Grill 188 Augusta Ave., 416-979-5557 |
Mongolian beef short ribs get low marks for presentation. But portions are more than generous and are accompanied by a giant salad of red cabbage, romano beans and romaine. $12 | The intoxicating aroma of wood-smoke builds anticipation. Four slabs of tender, sesame seed–flecked meat and buttery, smoky fat deliver—it’s a masterful balance of spicy sweetness, with ginger, garlic and Shao Hsing rice wine |
| The Real Jerk 709 Queen St. E., 416-463-6055 |
This is down-home cookin’, if down home is Kingston Town. Jerk pork ribs share the plate with generous helpings of sides (coconut rice, salad, coleslaw, curried potato or plain rice). $11 | Coming clean from the bone, the tender meat is tangy, sweet and smoky, but if you want heat, you have to ask for it. Bonus: take-home bottles of jerk, hot pepper and barbecue sauces are available at the bar |
| Pearl Court 633 Gerrard St. E., 416-463-8778 |
Unfussy bite-sized pieces of steamed pork spareribs arrive in a light black bean sauce, with a simple chopped scallion garnish. $8.75 | With plenty of melt-in-your-mouth fat, these tender morsels are delicately gelatinous and minimally dressed in a subtle sauce of garlic, ginger, fermented black bean and sesame, allowing the full flavour of the pork to shine |
