When Ben Heaton, the amicable executive chef at Globe Bistro, mucks around with sodium alginate and immersion circulators, what results is food that is experimental and playful, yet firmly grounded in the familiar. Inspired by a dessert at the influential Catalonian restaurant El Celler de Can Roca, Heaton created this decidedly po-mo take on cake and ice cream. Sponge cake brushed with Newfoundland screech shares the plate with a banana cooked sous-vide with maple syrup, and three creative takes on white chocolate (a quenelle of ice cream, a pool of foam and a newfangled truffle). Like the best molecular gastronomy, Heaton’s dessert toys with your emotions. It’s heartbreaking when a spoonful of surprisingly flavourful, ephemeral white chocolate foam dissipates the second it hits your tongue, and thrilling when a crisp sphere of warm brûléed white chocolate crème anglaise explodes, flooding your mouth with flavour and creamy texture. $9. Globe Bistro, 124 Danforth Ave., 416-466-2000.