Château des Charmes 2004 Pinot Noir **1/2 ($12.95, LCBO)
Quite floral, raspberry, lightly spicy nose is pretty, if simple. Light- to mid-weight pinot with tart acidity, earthy notes and some green tannin. Moderate to good length.

East Dell 2005 Pinot Noir **1/2 ($14.95, LCBO)
Earthy, burlap note crowds ripe raspberry, floral flavours. Light- to medium-bodied, with an even, fruity middle then a tart, dry finish. Good length.

Cave Spring 2004 Pinot Noir *** ($15.95, LCBO)
Light, correct pinot with pale ruby-garnet colour. Spicy, peppery, dill, cran-raspberry fruit and background clove spice from new oak. Light- to mid-weight, with a dusty tannic finish. Best now to 2008.

Inniskillin 2004 Pinot Noir Reserve ***1/2 ($16.80, LCBO)
Nicely balanced, youthful, classy pinot noir with ripe strawberry-cherry fruit layered amid vanilla, woodsmoke and earthy notes. Light- to medium-bodied, gentle with firm, dusty tannin. Good length. Best 2008 to 2010.

Henry of Pelham 2004 Pinot Noir ***1/2 ($16.90, LCBO)
More weight, grip and complexity than other 2004s. Spicy cran-raspberry fruit with pine, leather and woodsmoke. Mid-weight, firm and balanced, with a dry finish. Very good length. Now to 2009.

Flat Rock 2004 Pinot Noir *** ($19.95, Vintages)
Now starting to mature a bit, this is a light, crisp pinot with cran-cherry fruit, earth, spice and woodsmoke. Lively, taut, sweet and sour palate with a slightly bitter finish. Very good length, with clove spice and raspberry fruit.

Flat Rock 2004 Gravity Pinot Noir ***1/2 ($29.95, Vintages)
Lifted red currant–cranberry fruit with cinnamon stick, light smoke and some floral character. Quite supple, charming, mid-weight palate with some baby fat. Rootsy, slightly earthy finish. Fine tannin, although some bitterness. Best 2007 to 2010.

Henry of Pelham 2002 Speck Family Reserve **** ($40, www.winerytohome.com)
Heading into garnet-brick maturity. The nose shows generous cran-cherry fruit with smoky, dusty wood, earthy and pine forest scents. Some bitterness on the finish will recede with the tannin. Best 2007 to 2010. Last tasted in 2005.