September 2008

New Deli

The city’s best cold cuts By Eric Vellend

The latest DIY craze to conquer kitchens is house-made charcuterie. Even neighbourhood restos are experimenting with the French tradition of transforming pork and game into a panoply of carnivorous delights, turning out cured sausages, smoked hams and artisanal bologna. We’ve cherry-picked from the best platters to create the ultimate assemblage.

DUCK BRESOLA
Doug Penfold cures Muscovy duck breasts in a mixture of Espelette pepper, herbs and salt before drying them for a month. Carved into gossamer petals, they’re served with mustard sweetened with sherry-soaked raisins for an Iberian flourish. Cava, 1560 Yonge St., 416-979-9918.

LYONNAISE EN BRIOCHE
In-house butcher Ryan Donovan seasons ground pork scraps with garlic, allspice, thyme and a handful of pistachios. He then bakes the mixture in a blanket of brioche and sides it with purple sauerkraut—fermented in-house, of course. Cowbell, 1564 Queen St. W., 416-849-1095.

RABBIT AND CHANTERELLE TERRINE
Anthony Rose enriches the lean ground rabbit with foie gras and pork fat. Chanterelle mushrooms and crushed juni­per add a woodsy flavour. Pickled fiddleheads and seed mustard continue the patriotic theme. Drake Hotel, 1150 Queen St. W., 416-531-5042.

SLOVENIAN KLOBASA
Michael Steh’s sausage is a family recipe (his parents turn out 250 pounds of charcuterie each fall). He seasons ground Berkshire pork simply with garlic, salt and pepper. Sharp house-made pickles are the perfect foil. Reds Bistro & Wine Bar, 77 Adelaide St. W., 416-862-7337.

HEADCHEESE
Boris Coquerel, who perfected his technique in France, makes charcuterie for all of Jamie Kennedy’s restaurants. He uses a heritage breed for extra flavour. Trad Gallic garnishes of cornichons and Pommery mustard accompany. Gilead Café, 4 Gilead Pl., 647-288-0680.

Photographs by Christopher Stevenson





Current Issue
Get more Toronto Life:

DAILY: For up-to-the-minute updates, follow us on Twitter or via RSS
WEEKLY: Find the latest it-spots, top wines and the hottest parties by signing up for our free weekly e-newsletters
MONTHLY: Don't miss a word.
Subscribe to our award-winning magazine today

E-mail your ideas and feedback to Toronto Life editors

Today in Toronto: July 4, 2009

 |  RSS

Sponsored by

Concerts for Conservation with Mitchel Musso. July 12th at 4pm and 6pm. Tickets are $30 and include Zoo admission. Visit torontozoo.com

Click to search careers on Toronto Life. Powered by Career Builder Canada Click here for Perfect Escapes Click here to view the full Private Schools Directory