September 2008

New Deli

The city’s best cold cuts By Eric Vellend

The latest DIY craze to conquer kitchens is house-made charcuterie. Even neighbourhood restos are experimenting with the French tradition of transforming pork and game into a panoply of carnivorous delights, turning out cured sausages, smoked hams and artisanal bologna. We’ve cherry-picked from the best platters to create the ultimate assemblage.

DUCK BRESOLA
Doug Penfold cures Muscovy duck breasts in a mixture of Espelette pepper, herbs and salt before drying them for a month. Carved into gossamer petals, they’re served with mustard sweetened with sherry-soaked raisins for an Iberian flourish. Cava, 1560 Yonge St., 416-979-9918.

LYONNAISE EN BRIOCHE
In-house butcher Ryan Donovan seasons ground pork scraps with garlic, allspice, thyme and a handful of pistachios. He then bakes the mixture in a blanket of brioche and sides it with purple sauerkraut—fermented in-house, of course. Cowbell, 1564 Queen St. W., 416-849-1095.

RABBIT AND CHANTERELLE TERRINE
Anthony Rose enriches the lean ground rabbit with foie gras and pork fat. Chanterelle mushrooms and crushed juni­per add a woodsy flavour. Pickled fiddleheads and seed mustard continue the patriotic theme. Drake Hotel, 1150 Queen St. W., 416-531-5042.

SLOVENIAN KLOBASA
Michael Steh’s sausage is a family recipe (his parents turn out 250 pounds of charcuterie each fall). He seasons ground Berkshire pork simply with garlic, salt and pepper. Sharp house-made pickles are the perfect foil. Reds Bistro & Wine Bar, 77 Adelaide St. W., 416-862-7337.

HEADCHEESE
Boris Coquerel, who perfected his technique in France, makes charcuterie for all of Jamie Kennedy’s restaurants. He uses a heritage breed for extra flavour. Trad Gallic garnishes of cornichons and Pommery mustard accompany. Gilead Café, 4 Gilead Pl., 647-288-0680.

Photographs by Christopher Stevenson





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