Illustration by Maurice Vellekoop

The trend toward food and wine pairing has become a bit precious and obsessive of late. The truth is that the permutations are endless and everyone’s taste is different. But occasionally a food and wine pairing can truly elevate a meal. I recently had such an experience at One, Mark McEwan’s ode to luxury in York­ville. Sommelier Curtis Elson selected a Pelissero 2006 Dolcetto d’Alba Augenta from Italy to accompany a tender, juicy squab in a subtle rhubarb-chocolate glaze. It wasn’t an expensive wine, but it was beautifully made: seamlessly textured to flow with the richness of the meat, while ringing with sour cherry–like fruit that amplified the rhubarb. The pairing worked because it adhered to three basic rules: that the wine refresh, that its weight be in sync with the meal’s main ingredients, and that its flavours enhance, not detract from, the food’s. There were five other courses on the tasting menu that night, each intuitively matched with wines. And each of us at the table had our favourites, which shows that to get the most out of meals you must experiment tirelessly. You should also buy high-quality wine as often as you can afford it. Regardless of the region or type of grape, all quality wines have the same three characteristics: acid-based tension, overall balance and textural smoothness, and a complex range of well-defined, long-lasting flavours. Some $10 and $15 wines may provide one or two of these elements; at $25 to $50, most should work most of the time; and certainly above $50 they should have the requisite depth, balance and complexity every time. Here are 10 affordable bottles—with food matching suggestions—that over-perform for their price.

Campo Viejo 2003 Reserva
$18.45 | Rioja, Spain | 90 points
A charming, modern rioja that may be the most versatile food wine at the LCBO, Campo Viejo has complexity: sweet cherry amid well-integrated dried herbs, hashish (I didn’t inhale) and leathery flavours. It’s mid-weight, smooth and tidy, with fresh acidity and moderate tannin; very well balanced. Try it with liberally herbed game fowl, roasts and rare red meats, especially lamb. Best now to 2012. LCBO 137810

WHITE

Kim Crawford 2007 Sauvignon Blanc
$19.95 | Marlborough, New Zealand | 90 points
This popular sauvignon sports a terrific combi­nation of harmonized passion fruit, lemon-lime and fresh green herbs. It’s mid-weight, fresh and juicy—very well balanced—with a clean, dry finish. It would complement all manner of salads and seafood, especially scallops or shrimp. Vintages Essential. LCBO 35386

Louis Jadot 2006 Bourgogne Chardonnay
$20.95 | Burgundy, France | 89 points
A substantial 50 per cent barrel-fermented white burgundy with peat smoke, almond, lemon, poached pear and clove notes. Medium-full bodied, firm and dry, with excellent length. The barrel influences point to grilled or smoked recipes. Garlic and butter work well with chardonnay. Vintages Essential. LCBO 933077

Masi 2007 Masianco
$14.95 | Venetia, Italy | 89 points
An unusual blend of 75 per cent pinot grigio and 25 per cent verduzzo, Masi 2007 is a local variety that is partially fermented in French oak. The wine is quite aromatic, with ripe melon, pear and floral notes, and subtle clove and cedar-like spiciness. Considerable textural richness on the palate but not overly creamy, so it should still refresh. Try it with broiled salmon or seafood in rich cream, butter and herb sauces. LCBO 620773

Pierre Sparr 2006 Gewurztraminer
$16.05 | Alsace, France | 88 points
Big, rich and almost sweet, this gewurz shows intense apricot, lychee, honey, pepper and yellow plum. Medium-full bodied, soft and silky, yet sumptuous. It will overpower delicate recipes but stand up to most curries. LCBO 373373

RED

Château des Laurets 2004 Puisseguin Saint-Émilion
$20.60 | Bordeaux, France | 88 points
This gem on the general list shows real class, bringing to mind more expensive merlot-based Saint-Émilion with generous, well-harmonized blackberry, plum, cedar, wood spice and herbal tea aromas. Light to medium bodied, smooth and elegant; it requires subtly spiced dishes, like risotto or roasted poultry. LCBO 371401

Masi 2006 Serego Alighieri Possessioni Rosso
$15.95 | Venetia, Italy | 89 points
This blend of local corvina and sangiovese— all aged in cherry­wood barrels—creates a full yet subtle and savoury red with black cherry, fennel, leather and a hint of chocolate. Medium weight, it’s nicely smooth yet tart, with mild tannin. The wine makes me crave Mark McEwan’s squab dish, but many Italian meat and pasta dishes should also work. LCBO 447326

Penfolds 2006 Koonunga Hill Cabernet Sauvignon
$17.05 | South Australia | 89 points
A suave cabernet handled with kid gloves. Lovely, genteel nose of ripe blackcurrant, violets, vanilla and tobacco. Medium-full bodied, smooth and fresh, with excellent length. Try with tenderloin or rare lamb now to 2010. LCBO 45625

Peter Lehmann 2005 Shiraz
$19.90 | Barossa Valley, South Australia | 90 points
The hot Barossa makes wines with real girth and power. This shows complex black­currant, juniper-eucalyptus, leather and chocolate flavours set within a smooth texture. Some tannin and heat on the finish, but the fruit pushes through to excellent length. Bring on the red meats—tenderloin, bison, elk, lamb—richly marinaded, sauced or braised. LCBO 572875

Stoneleigh 2007 Pinot Noir
$19.95 | Marlborough, New Zealand | 87 points
The first premium N.Z. pinot on the general list catches raspberry, floral and mineral notes that are nicely balanced against spicy smoky- charcoal character from barrel aging. It’s a light, fruity and juicy pinot with firm grip and some sourness, so it could be chilled a bit and enjoyed like beaujolais with ribs and wings in sweet-spicy marinades. LCBO 54353