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Lawrason On Wine

Posts with category ‘General’

First Pour

Posted on April 24, 2006

Welcome back to weekly coverage of the topic that never tires. A place where once again—since departing the weekly “On Wine” column in the Globe and Mail in 1999—I can provide real-time news, views and reviews. This blog will review new releases from Ontario wineries, the LCBO general list, Vintages and Consignment. It will tell stories about people and places, and guide you to seminars and events. It will be your bookmark for what’s happening in the dynamic wine scene in Toronto and surrounding wine regions.

Santé, Australia and Prince Edward County

Posted on May 1, 2006

Pour a glass of spring riesling (Vineland 2005 Semi-Dry leaps to mind) and read on. It’s a busy time…The 7th annual Santé Food and Wine Festival is underway in the Bloor-Yorkville district this week, featuring a mix of large and small tasting, dinners both grand and intimate, “Sip, Savour and Shop” opportunities and seminars by wine experts. Unlike many traditional wine fairs, this is not an attempt to jam a gazillion wines and people into one room for a few hours, then boast about numbers. Eighty international wineries will be supplying events spread over five days throughout the community—a grassroots graze, albeit in a real green pasture neighbourhood. Perhaps this slightly foreign concept is the reason Santé fails to ignite passions in some. Knowing there was a charity beneficiary might evoke more empathy as well. That said, there is plenty going on, and the open-minded always find food for thought.

County Terroir, Tawse, Lifford Highlights

Posted on May 15, 2006

Long weekend coming up! For a getaway, head east to Prince Edward County’s Terroir Wine Celebration at the Picton Crystal Palace on Saturday, May 20 from 1 to 7 p.m. Jamie Kennedy, who owns a vineyard in the County (no wines yet) will be among several star County-focused chefs pairing up with County wineries who are showing their new releases. Stay over and tour wineries the next day. Tickets and info at www.pecountywines.ca. There has been a spate of County events in recent weeks, and with all the activity one wonders if they will run out of their tiny amounts of wine by mid-summer. The following Saturday, May 27, the 7th annual Ontario Fruit Wine Festival is on at Archibald Winery & Cider House Golf on Liberty Street north of Bowmanville.

Tio Pepe and Opimian Society

Posted on June 5, 2006

Last Wednesday evening, I was in the courtyard at Bodega Gonzales Byass in Jerez, Spain, enjoying copious copitas (small glasses designed for fino sherry) of Tio Pepe, the company’s landmark brand, and world’s largest selling fino sherry. I was amazed at its continuous ability to refresh the palate through two hours of assorted hot and cold tapas. I was also ruminating on the incredulous news that the folks who run the LCBO's General List back home had de-listed this iconic wine. Importer Russell Woodman was informed of this in early May, with a curt fax saying that Tio Pepe had not made quota. Woodman claims a three-month out-of-stock situation had hurt the sales numbers, and has appealed. Meanwhile he is also taking steps to get Tio Pepe moving through Vintages stores where he feels it will be better handled by product consultants who have some idea of what this wine is all about. Obviously, given the General List’s thoughtless (computer-generated?) action, the folks there do not understand this wine. Certainly, the fortunes of sherry continue to fall globally, so the industry in Jerez must look itself in the eye and figure out a way to stop the slide. Ironically, Tio Pepe had already tried just that—recently reconfiguring the contents to make it one of the fruitiest, gentlest of fino sherries, then re-packaging it in a new white wine-looking bottle that even included the grape name—palomino—on the label.

Niagara 2005 Whites, Cellar Reds, Wine in the Cour

Posted on June 12, 2006

The great appeal of this blog is writing in real time and being able to recommend wines before they disappear. Or wines of which only tiny amounts were made. The 25-winery New Vintage Niagara event at the St. Catharines’ Golf and Country Club on Saturday opened the window onto a handful of fine new releases that won’t make it much past the winery gate—a situation more acute this season with the 2005s being in short supply. About 50% of Niagara’s 2005 crop was wiped out by winter frosts, but what remained ripened to record levels during a summer in which the region enjoyed 30 days of temperatures above 30 degrees.

Vieux Télégraphe, Single Serve Stone Cellars

Posted on June 19, 2006

When the stakes are high, you gotta know when to hold 'em. An urbane, mild-mannered French winemaker named Daniel Brunier made two Toronto appearances late last week showcasing two family wineries from the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation in the south of France: the renowned Domaine Le Vieux Télégraphe, plus a newer, refurbished estate called Clos La Roquete. The most famed appellation of the southern Rhone is home to the world’s best known, most powerful and long-lived grenache-based reds, usually blended with syrah, mourvedre and other grapes—up to 22 are allowed. Although some Chateauneufs are robust and round enough to enjoy when young, others from top estates have considerable longevity.

Value Wines, Calgary Dining, Portuguese Whites

Posted on June 26, 2006

Howdy, from the Hotel Arts in Calgary—site of the first International Value Wine Awards. There are 800 wines entered from 18 countries, all available somewhere in Canada for less than $25. As far as I know, this is the world’s first international judging for less-expensive wines, and I suspect there will be big world wide interest in this process. Results will determine a best red and best white under $25, then provide “top ten values” in each major varietal category—for example, the ten best shiraz in Canada under $25. They will also break out winners regionally or by country. By rough count, about 300 of the wines entered are found on Ontario’s general list or as Vintages Essentials, wines that I will be reviewing in the Toronto Life Eating and Drinking Guide this fall. The competition is being held in Calgary because Alberta, with a privatized market and over 700 stores, has the largest number of brands on store shelves of any province in Canada, over 10,000 at any one time compared to about 4,000 in Ontario.

Thirst Calls, Riesling Answers

Posted on July 4, 2006

The peak of summer is also riesling’s peak season. Care to listen to two tempting tales of the enjoyment and wonderment that this naked grape delivers?

B.C.'s Okanagan, Alsace, July 8 Release

Posted on July 10, 2006

There's still plenty of time this summer or fall to plan a wining-and-dining week in the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia, and you should. I’m on a two-week busman’s holiday in this blessed corner of the world to lay ground work for the Wine Access Canadian Wine Awards to be held in Penticton in September, and to attend the 25th anniversary celebration for Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, the first estate winery in the Okanagan. The Valley has indeed come of age, bursting with confidence, energy, growth and traffic. Driving the wine route, I can’t believe the number of new wineries that have popped out of the hills—now over 100.

B.C.’s Jackson-Triggs & Inniskillin, Australia’s C

Posted on July 17, 2006

"In my conversations with Constellation they have said nothing will change. They told me, ‘Keep on doing what you are doing’”. Which suits Jackson-Triggs Okanagan winemaker Bruce Nicholson perfectly. The former Niagaran has piloted JTO to critical acclaim in international and domestic competitions since the turn of the millennium, and if Constellation Brands, the new American owners of Vincor Canada, do not make changes, then we should all be glad. He and viticulturalist Mark Sheridan are doing fine work with grapes from the massive Bull Pine, Bear Cub and SunRock vineyards planted in the Sonoran Desert astride Osoyoos Lake in southern B.C.

Buckhorn Festival, Unoaked Chardonnay, Fevre Chabl

Posted on July 24, 2006

Summery, mild-mannered, unoaked chardonnay is a style that Ontario does very well. Most refresh the palate like a crisp new apple, with better examples sewing in mineral and leesy complexity—just as in good Chablis, the spiritual homeland of the genre. I was reminded of Ontario’s growing prowess with this style while grazing at the 10th Annual Fiesta Buckhorn on Saturday in Kawartha cottage country. This event has grown from the vision of one local Ontario wine evangelist named Larry Paterson into a three-day wine, beer and culinary weekend that attracts hundreds and raises funds for the Buckhorn Community Centre, 30 minutes northeast of Peterborough on the Trent-Severn Waterway. It’s like summer camp for wine fans, with over 75 exhibitors stationed in a series of cabins plus the main community hall. 49 Ontario wineries were pouring, often skippered by proprietors and winemakers themselves. In other words it has become a big deal, and when part of leisurely summer weekend for Kawartha cottagers and Trent boaters it’s can’t help be relaxed and fun. It’s the most unpretentious, undressed wine event you’ll ever attend, so make a note now to attend next year—the third weekend of July.

Aussie Shiraz, LCBO Picks & Pans

Posted on July 31, 2006

The dog days of summer find me confined to my quarters, tasting virtually everything good, bad and indifferent on the LCBO general list, and on Vintages continuously available Essentials list. Hundreds of bottles are lined up for tasting in preparation for the fall publication of the Toronto Life Eating and Drinking Guide. It appears on newsstands in full magazine format in late October and then in the smaller Food and Wine CityGuide as a supplement to the December issue. I’m not quite ready to talk trends and observations, but I can offer faithful blog-readers a sneak preview. I will expand in the next couple of weeks as tasting continues; heaven knows that there is little else to report upon at this time of year. The wine world is on a summer snooze, much like my teenage sons.

Sommelier School and Washington Whites

Posted on August 8, 2006

While most wine drinkers, buyers and sellers have booked off for a summer hiatus—to finally sit back and enjoy those great value rieslings, rosés and sauvignon blancs— a group of Toronto sommeliers are in summer school, with no relief on hot days. They are the second class to register for the intensive 39-week Sommelier Certificate Program at George Brown College, offered in conjunction with the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers. This trade association has chapters in Toronto and Montreal, with links to similar European organizations. Certified members of CAPS can compete in the annual Meilleur Sommelier du Monde Competition being held next year in Spain.

Cellar-Starting Portuguese Reds

Posted on August 14, 2006

Mid-August may seem an odd time to talk about cellaring inexpensive Portugese reds, but the character of this genre has been something of a revelation. I've tasted virtually the entire LCBO general list for the Toronto Life Eating and Drinking Guide (out in October) and December's Food and Wine CityGuide, and I’ve just finished the section on Spain and Portugal. Here's a sneak preview of what’s coming, plus four picks demonstrating the age-worthiness of Portugal’s reds.

Treadwell: A Father and Son Match

Posted on August 21, 2006

Many chefs and sommeliers talk of food and wine matching, but it’s always a joy to walk into a restaurant where chef and sommelier actually talk together—and then deliver outstanding matches at the table. Even better when they are a father and son with a genetically linked sense of flavour, and where the chef father has instilled passion for wine in son. It happened Sunday at Treadwell in Port Dalhousie, Niagara as James Chatto and I, along with group of 30 merrymakers, wound up our annual Tour of Niagara. Treadwell was the bon voyage lunch after a 48-hour matching extravaganza, in which we savoured and poked our way through 20 different courses and 46 wines. (There were several other great dishes and wines, some of which are covered in Chatto’s Digest this week.)

Top 12 Wines of August '06

Posted on August 28, 2006

Watch this space the last Monday of every month, where I'll be providing a selection of 12 memorable wines encountered over the preceding 30 days. The selection is based on outright quality, surprise, newsworthiness, value, or any combination thereof. All are currently or soon to be available. The picks are arranged in descending price order so you'll have to read to the end to find the very best values.

Wine Fridges and Wine Schools

Posted on September 5, 2006

I spent part of my Labour Day weekend helping my dear friend Carol buy her first wine fridge. We shopped during Ernesto’s deluge on Saturday afternoon, sloshing from store to store along the tacky Dundas Street strip in Mississauga. At Home Depot, after a 2 km-walk through the store, we found one 36-bottle fridge for $499. Not bad but we needed to see others.

The Merchant Vintner

Posted on September 12, 2006

The small, leafy backyard patio in the Upper Beach Gerrard/Coxwell home of wine importer Tony Hirons, The Merchant Vintner, bristled with sunlit wine bottles. The Italians over there, the French under the umbrella mixed with the Australians, the Iberians on that table. There were just a few tasters and all kinds of time to rummage through a portfolio of consignment and future Vintages releases from small family producers around the world. What made this all the more interesting was Hirons’ personal stories about each producer. Now passing the family business into the hands of son Nick after 25 years, The Merchant Vintner is a true artisan importer, and an outspoken advocate for family, fairness and fun in the wine business. This is a man—and there are others in Toronto like him—who deserves the chance to be a real wine merchant, in his own store and in his own neighbourhood, passing on wines and stories to friends and strangers who walk through his door every day. Instead he must hold near-clandestine tastings for a few wine writers in the hope they can get the word out about wines that can only be ordered by the case, or which will be coming out six months from now. (Hopefully the writers won’t forget). But that’s the way selling fine wine works in our world class city.

Judging Wine Under $25

Posted on September 19, 2006

There are some gorilla-sized values in our midst, and you might want to head to the LCBO today or tomorrow before the word is further spread. On Sunday night, the wines listed below were tipped as top of their respective classes by the International Value Wine Awards.

Ontario Pinot Noir with Your Turkey

Posted on September 25, 2006

If Thanksgiving is about celebrating local bounty, and you like cranberry with your bird, then there is only one wine choice for your holiday table—Ontario VQA pinot noir. This light red just loves poultry and is morphing into a specialty of our cool climate, with a number of promising pinots emerging, most since the 2002 vintage. New names like Flat Rock Cellars, Tawse Estate, and Coyote’s Run of Niagara, plus Norman Hardie, Rosehall Run and Long Dog of Prince Edward County are leading the way—although often, with limited production, the wines are found only at the wineries themselves. We eagerly await the debut of new pinots from Le Clos Jordanne, the Niagara-based joint venture between Boisset of Burgundy and Vincor. On October 17, the local media gets to taste the range and I will duly report on that at the time.

Best of September '06

Posted on October 2, 2006

Each month, watch for the top wines encountered in the previous four weeks. Not necessarily the best of the best, but 12 wines that stood out in terms of quality, value, newsworthiness or plain intrigue. Here is the line-up for September, presented in descending price order—you'll have to read to the end to find the best values. They are either immediately available or coming soon (please bookmark). If neither, I've provided tracking information.

A Tale of Two Fall Fairs

Posted on October 10, 2006

It was a glorious Thanksgiving weekend to be in southern Ontario, particularly in the countryside celebrating local bounty. The province’s wine growers were certainly giving thanks for three hot, dry days that pushed sugar levels in later ripening grape varieties, and helped dry out the soggy vineyards for picking.

King of Gewürz, Bang for Buck Reds

Posted on October 16, 2006

One of the great joys of this profession is finding individuals who are involved with wine beyond what makes apparent sense. Enter Nick Nobilo, the new king of gewürztraminer. Nobilo is one of the most recognizable names in New Zealand wine circles. But since Nick’s family sold the 40-year-old business to Hardys of Australia in 2000, Nick has marched to his own drummer into the warm, humid Gisborne region to found a winery called Vinoptima. It makes only one wine—gewürztraminer—that sells for about $50 per bottle. “It is the most underrated of the classic vinifera whites,” he said. “It is capable of great complexity and depth. As the wine market matures, aromatic whites are coming on, and gewürztraminer will be at the pinnacle of that movement."

Chile Showdown in Toronto

Posted on October 24, 2006

First they took Berlin, then Tokyo, then São Paolo. But Toronto proved no pushover.

And A Big Time Was Had by All

Posted on October 30, 2006

If the chef at your favourite high end restaurant wasn’t on the premises last Saturday night it’s likely because he or she was cooking in a private residence for the Grand Cru Culinary Festival. Twenty-five chefs fanned out through the city’s swankiest neighbourhoods where they each teamed up with one of 25 famous winemakers from around the world to present lavish meals to 18 guests per residence. Each person paid $2,500 per to raise funds for the Toronto General & Western Hospital Foundation and the University Health Network, a leading teaching and research facility. I was unable to attend any of the dinners this year (the festival is in its second year), but I did attend the private tasting Thursday evening at a posh Versailles-like home in the Post Road area, where each of the winemakers personally presented two or three wines to 200 guests. My highlights in a moment.

The Best Of October 2006

Posted on November 6, 2006

Each month, I look back over the previous four weeks of tasting notes to review ten wines that stood out for quality, value, newsworthiness or plain intrigue. With several major high-end tastings, including Halpern’s Grand Cru Festival, the Errazuriz Berlin Tasting and the Port and Douro Reds event, plus tastings for Vintages November releases, much of the selection is up in more rarefied territory this month. And, by chance, several happen to be great age-worthy cabernet sauvignons—still the king of the cellar. Here is the line-up presented in descending price order, so you have to read to the end to find the best values. They are all either immediately available, coming soon (please bookmark), or I have provided tracking information.

Call in the Marketing Police

Posted on November 13, 2006

I get my share of grand tasting opportunities, fancy dinners and interviews with wine celebrities. But some days one must work the trenches as well. On Friday, it was the monthly press tasting at the LCBO for new releases on the general list, a smorgasbord of inexpensive, often weird and not too wonderful wines, beers and spirits. Given that the holiday silly season approaches the selection was even more bizarre, with “gift ideas” of oversized bottles that look like bowling pins, undersized French Rabbit tetra-paks and bottles with names like Yellowglen Pink, Igluu (an icewine gift set), Funky Llama, Painted Turtle and Kelly’s Revenge. (Note to the marketing police: please investigate who Kelly is and why he or she is so vengeful as to inflict these sour wines on us). One can see some artistic merit and mirth in these packages, but set against the barren, clinically white walls of the tiny tasting “lab” at LCBO HQ, the collection also presents a grotesque Warholian landscape of our almost infantile North American drinks culture. (And thus the need for marketing police.)

The Real Beaujolais

Posted on November 20, 2006

Did you have your glass of Beaujolais Nouveau this weekend? I know, it’s about as much fun as a flu shot. I have been in four different fine dining Toronto restaurants—plus one in Belleville and one in Prince Edward County—since Beaujolais Nouveau release day last Thursday, and I can only report the virtual silence about Nouveau this year. Very few displays, posters, chat, or bottles on tables. I tried it at the LCBO Thursday morning and the diagnosis was "thin, simple and sour," so I would not recommend spending $13 to $15. I then moved on later in the day to Jamie Kennedy Restaurant and Wine Bar where there was fine, dawdling, conversational mid-afternoon Beaujolais tasting underway with the terrific gamays from Pascal Granger of Julienas.

The Toronto Taste Challenge

Posted on November 28, 2006

It’s usually the Maple Leafs who put their reputations on the line at the Air Canada Centre, but Monday there was an event of career importance to over 200 of Toronto’s wine professionals. The city’s top palates gathered in the Platinum Club overlooking centre ice to compete in a blind tasting challenge for about $80,000 in wine-related prizes. It was free to any and all aspirants, with seven international wines presented to professionals, three to amateurs, with both groups also having to identify three Canadian VQA wines. With each wine, contestants had to identify grape variety (four points), country of origin (three points), region or specific appellation (two points) and vintage date (one point).

Best of November '06

Posted on December 5, 2006

In November I attended 16 events in Toronto, Ottawa and Kingston, tasting approximately 400 wines. It wasn't easy therefore for a wine to get my attention. But here are 10 that leapt onto the radar through impressive quality, value, or simple uniqueness. They are not necessarily available on shelf at the LCBO—indeed, several this month are from producers probing our market, a huge, rarely written about realm. But it's one that Ontarians need to tap into more often in order to experience the much wider world that exists beyond the LCBO. They are listed from most to least expensive (so you have to read to the end for the best buys).

Three Wise Gifts

Posted on December 11, 2006

It's not the slickest, hippest wine book in the world but that lack of attitude is one reason why it's the best. Also because it is crammed with facts, an A to Z of wine with over 4,000 entries, presented tidily, logically, in language that everyone can understand. The third edition of the Oxford Companion to Wine (Gift #1) was edited by British wine writer Jancis Robinson, and it has captured her demeanour perfectly, a personal observation made after meeting her a few days ago in Toronto. She has an aura of approachability in person and in print that makes this monster book feel like a companion indeed. She also has the depth, objectivity and assurance to make it The Authority.

The Holiday Contingency Case

Posted on December 19, 2006

Omigod—the wine! Two weeks of holiday dinners and drop-ins ahead, not to mention parties where you need to bring a bottle for the host. Don’t delay heading to the LCBO for a last minute contingency case of inexpensive wines. Here are 10 of varying style, for various holiday situations. And if you have no time to read to the end, get a mixed case of the first three. All are LCBO general listings with the exception of Tio Pepe at Vintages. Hoping you savour every sip and cherished moment this season.

Champagne’s Finest Hour

Posted on December 28, 2006

Virtually every adult I’ve talked with over the holidays is staying home this New Year’s Eve--or at least within walking distance. Not good news for restaurants and grand hotel soirées, but the neighbourhood New Year’s Eve, centred on a small, intimate and elegant meal, does have several advantages. One is drinking fine Champagne without huge mark-ups, before, during or after the meal, and certainly during the finest hour when the countdown begins. Here are 10 favourite French Champagnes still on the shelf (most at Vintages) as of December 24, arranged in descending price order. The best buy, if grabbing a bottle or two on the fly, is the Lanson Black Label Brut at $39.95--$5.00 off the regular price until December 31. See review at the end of the list.

The Issue of the Year

Posted on January 2, 2007

As the new year dawns unseasonably mild in Ontario—with yet another week of above-freezing temps already showing on the forecast charts—there can be only one issue of earth-shattering importance to the wine world. That would be global warming and the many environmental issues that spin from the eye of this ever-growing storm.

Value Hunting Under $15

Posted on January 8, 2007

A Toronto newspaper recently kicked off 2007 by listing best buys under $10, and, although well intended to cater to drained pocketbooks, it struck me, with a couple of exceptions, as a dreary line-up. Can’t we get beyond $10 when taste actually matters? Jump to $15 as your median for buying good everyday wines and you will find many wines that are correct, show their varietal and regional character and attain good balance. They may not have the nuanced complexity, finesse and length of finish of more expensive wines, but they should be satisfying and problem free. January is the time to bargain hunt at the LCBO’s Vintages stores, and a few good under $15 bottles were released on Saturday. Here are 10—listed in decreasing price order—all showing availability at www.lcbo.com as of Monday morning, January 8. By the way, we are now providing LCBO product numbers to speed and narrow up Internet searches for wines at stores near you.

Wine of the Week & Michel Rolland in Toronto

Posted on January 30, 2007

Chateau Fontenil 2004 Fronsac ****
Bordeaux, France ($49, Vintages 35907)
This property near Libourne in Bordeaux’s right bank is the domicile of winemaker Michel Rolland, the subject of this week’s feature. The Fronsac appellation is famous (or infamous) for having a strong mineral flavour and austere tannin; it’s interesting, but hardly mouth-watering merlot. Fontenil shows that minerality too, but embroidered by the perfectly ripened berry fruit and fine tannin—a lovely wine with poise, purity and nuance. I’ve not tasted a Fronsac like this before, but I did recognize its place. It's part of a special Vintages offering (see below).

Concha y Toro Rarely Misses

Posted on February 5, 2007

Wine of the Week
Concha Y Toro 2006 Trio Sauvignon Blanc **** ($14.15, LCBO #678656)
Casablanca Valley, Chile

The Trio line joins the LCBO general list en masse—or at least in triplicate—with this new sauvignon, plus two reds (see below). This bright, genteel screw-capped sauvignon hails from three vineyards in the maritime Casablanca Valley, although the closest to the ocean called Lo Ovalle is coolest and contributes most to this blend. Lovely proportion and integration among the citrus (lime-grapefruit), tree fruit (pear, passion fruit) and herbal elements (lemongrass, fresh dill). It’s mid-weight, fresh, bright and rounded for easy drinking, with very good length. Delicious, and a great way to move summer ahead on your calendar.

Suggestions from the Valentine Sommelier

Posted on February 12, 2007

Wines of the Week
Miguel Torres of Spain offers both a red and white San Valentin. They are both gentle, well made, easy going wines that will fit comfortably into any modest Valentine tête-a-tête. San Valentin 2005 Garnacha ***1/2 ($13.75, Vintages 673541) is cuddly, jammy, slightly peppery red grenache for sipping and casual meals. San Valentin 2005 Parellada *** ($13.75, Vintages 673988) is an aromatic, fresh, soft dry white from the Spanish grape variety that forms the backbone of Spanish cava.

Chablis' Comeback

Posted on February 20, 2007

Wine of the Week
Pommier 2004 Côte De Lechet Chablis 1er Cru **** ($32.95, Vintages 23747)
From a small domain run by the married team of Denise and Isabelle Pommier, who began production on a small family property using traditional techniques, then switched to partial barrel fermentation in 1998. Apple/pear fruit quality is nicely ripe, with a touch of vanilla, herbs and spices. Medium weight, with terrific grip and balance and a lime, mineral and spicy finish that hits excellent length. Very enjoyable now, should please through 2010.

Vintages Pumps up Web Offerings

Posted on February 26, 2007

Wine of the Week
Maison Chanson 2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir **** ($19.00, www.winetrader.ca)
Encountered at a Burgundy tasting at the Fairmont Royal York on February 17, this spiffy, lighter pinot noir heralds the very fine quality and firm elegance of Burgundy’s 2005 vintage. Others (see below) tasted that day and since have confirmed that it will be a classic. Nifty aromas combine ripe cherry, vanilla, wood spice and pine. It’s light to medium bodied, slender and seamless with a slightly tart finish. Very good length. Best 2008 to 2011. Available by the case only from Hanna & Sons, but you’ll not regret having it at your beck and call when a lighter pinot is required. See other well priced 2005s below.

Niagara Winemakers Choose Their Best

Posted on March 5, 2007

Wine of the Week
Thirty Bench 2005 Wine Makers Riesling **** ($18.15, 24133)
The top scoring white at the Cuvée Wine Awards announced Saturday in Niagara. It signals a rebound for this small Beamsville Bench winery now in the hands of Peller Estates. A very good vintage, old vines and new enthusiasm and talent from winemaker Natalie Reynolds have produced a vital riesling showing New World boldness with ripe peach-pineapple fruit, a touch of petrol and mouthwatering lime-like acidity. Plus Germanic finesse in a touch of sweetness. Also won Riesling class at Cuvée. A smattering of bottles remain in Vintages stores—check at www.lcbo.com. Also try Vineyards wine stores in the GTA.

Gallo Reflections

Posted on March 12, 2007

Wine of the Week
Gallo Family 2005 Sierra Valley Merlot *** ($8.15)
Nicely done for eight dollars. Mid-merlot with a shy nose and some lack of fruit depth but perfect berry ripeness nicely embellished by vanilla and back ground clove. A touch of tobacco and earthiness as well. Best now to 2009. The label change on this vintage emphasizes the family rather than founders Ernest and Julio.

Tetra Paks: The Good, The Bad and The Gaudy

Posted on March 19, 2007

Wine of the Week
Lizard Flat 2005 Chardonnay Verdleho *** Australia (20610, $13.15/1L)
What I expect from a Tetra Pak—a lively, fresh and simple white wine to take on a summer picnic or fishing expedition. The high acid verdelho grape is key to its vitality. Shows clean, almost floral lemony, kiwi and pineapple fruit in a light, crisp yet slightly sweet texture. Finish thin but it is appealing. I have tasted this twice; impressed both times. I have also tasted the companion Lizard Flat 2005 Merlot twice and found one box dull and somewhat oxidative, the other quite good.

Gone Fishin'

Posted on April 2, 2007

David is currently away. Please stay tuned for his next post.

Fielding's Finest

Posted on April 2, 2007

Wine of the Week
Fielding Estate 2006 Chardonnay Musqué ($15.95, Vintages 37879, score 88 points*)
Fielding has gained quite a reputation for its zesty, fragrant, floral aromatic whites. From a particularly fragrant clone of chardonnay, this is intentionally off-dry, yet very good lime-like acidity works to balance it out. Very lifted lavender, lime, tangerine and green apple and melon nose, with flavours staying focused through a very long finish. Chill it down a bit and enjoy on the deck this summer.

Private Order Break Out

Posted on May 7, 2007

Wine of the Week
Bodegas Terras Gauda 2006 O Rosel, Rias Baixas, Spain ($26, 91 points, www.thewinecoaches.com)
Gorgeous aromatic, fleshy, lively and spicy white made on Spain’s northwest coast in Galicia, primarily from the local albarino grape (70%) with 20% loureira and 10% caino. Youth is so important with this style of wine that can sink into soupiness as it ages. This is as bright as they come, bursting with star anise, pineapple and grapefruit.

* * * * *

Ontario’s Big Week

Posted on June 12, 2007

Grange of Prince Edward Trumpour’s Mill 2006 Pinot Gris ($16.95, 86 points, winery only)
Prince Edward County
Look closely at the fine print. This is among the first labels bearing the name of the world’s newest wine region—Prince Edward County. On Monday, the county’s VQA status became official at ceremonies held at Waupoos Estate Winery. This recently released gris from young vines in the Grange’s Isabel Vineyard needs another three to six months bottle aging, but is showing typical Alsatian (not Italian) style peach, almond, musk and lemon pinot gris aromas. Its light, crisp mineral-driven frame is typical of county wines—promising gris indeed. This wine will be coming to Vintages in September, and is, in the meantime, available at the winery.

Aboard the Tasting Treadmill

Posted on July 3, 2007

Wine of the Week
Antinori 2003 Villa Antinori ($24.10, 88 points), Tuscany
Tasted three times within the past three weeks, this old standby on the LCBO general list has subtly changed recently, and, in this ripe vintage at least, the change is all for the better. Formerly made as a Chianti Classico under Italian regulation, it moves to the broader IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) designation which allows cheaper sangiovese grapes to be sourced outside the Classico zone, and allows a higher proportion of non-traditional grapes like cabernet, merlot and syrah. It still comes across as authentic Tuscan red however, with ripe red cherry, currant, cedar and tobacco flavours. The change is more textural, softer and richer, with comforting warmth and fine tannin. Very good length as well. Ready to enjoy now but should hold well through 2010.

Gone Fishin'

Posted on August 8, 2007

I'll be away until September 5. Please enjoy the rest of your summer, and I'll see you around Labour Day.

My Italian Summer Vacation

Posted on September 5, 2007

Wine of the Week
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2003 Cenerentola, Orcia, Tuscany ($50, 90 points)
One of the most interesting wines of my summer vacation in Italy was this fragrant blend—65% sangiovese, 35% foglia tonda—an antique, almost extinct Italian variety being revived at Colombini’s Fattoria del Colle estate near Trequenda. Aged one year in two different barrel sizes it shows lovely blueberry and blackberry fruit with fine peppery notes, supple texture and fine-grained tannins. Quite international in style, especially in this hot vintage, and very elegant and nervy as well. It is available by the case at www.lesommelier.com.

Five Great Niagara Moments

Posted on September 12, 2007

Wine of the Week
Hidden Bench 2005 Vieilles Vignes Chardonnay, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula ($40, 93 points, 130 cases produced)
Hidden Bench has been making waves since it opened in June. From 30-year-old vines in the Rosomel Vineyard, this is an outstanding, intense yet refined, chardonnay with complex aromas of cashew, pineapple, peat smoke and custard. Great acidity holds it together; very vibrant yet rich, with flavours powering to outstanding length. It goes on sale September 15 at the winery only, along with first release reds—the elegant Hidden Bench 2005 Pinot Noir (88 points, $35, 240 cases produced) and a very fine cabernet-merlot Bordeaux blend called Terroir Cachet (90 points, $35, 450 cases produced). A new Niagara star is born.

Ten Picks from a Busy Week

Posted on September 26, 2007

Wine of the Week
Norman Hardie 2006 County Pinot Noir, Prince Edward County ($35, 89 points)
The rainy harvest of 2006 was difficult for pinot noir in Ontario, causing dilution of flavour and a break down of the fruit. Norman Hardie’s solutions were to greatly thin the clusters and severely sort the grapes, reducing yields drastically. He has only 150 cases remaining of the final result—a light, elegant, focused and appealing pinot noir with typical county florality, cranberry/raspberry fruit and nicely inlaid oak spice and smoke. With a supple structure and fine tannin, it won’t cellar long beyond 2010 but is charming now. Most important is the potential it shows for county pinot noir. It’s available at the winery only, or order via the Web site.

Ten Killer Values Under $25

Posted on October 2, 2007

Wine of the Week
Farnese 2005 Sangiovese Daunia, Italy ($7.45, 87 points, 512327)
A major winemaking achievement from the south of Italy for this price, with clean, ripe berry-redcurrant fruit, leather and marzipan typical of sangiovese without any hint of acetic problems common in this area. It is almost satiny smooth and has an easy-drinking sweetness followed by a dry, sour cherry finish. Not great length but surely good enough at the price. Will grace any casual meal from pizza and pasta to wings, ribs and Mexican fare. It ranked ninth in the Top 25 Killer Values at the International Value Wine Awards.

Lawrason’s Best New Releases

Posted on October 23, 2007

Wine of the Week
Domaine des Aubuisières 2006 Vouvray Cuvée de Silex, Loire Valley, France ($16.95, 89 points, 57042)
A real steal for fans of Loire chenin blanc or anyone wanting something a little different to open a classy wine-focused dinner. This is tender, delicate and a touch sweet, so it won’t impress as a bracing acid-driven thirst quencher. It does, however, have subtlety and a satiny elegance, with poached pear (quince), honey and a touch of damp hay. Very good length. Lovely wine. Largest stock (96 bottles) at Bayview and Sheppard. Vintages.

15 Top Releases

Posted on October 31, 2007

Wine of the Week
Obikwa 2007 Shiraz, Western Cape, South Africa ($9.65, 87 points, 527499)
Huge value for less than 10 bucks. This brand new vintage shows an exuberant nose of blackberry, lilac, campfire smoke and clove. Mid-weight, slim and a touch sweet with soft tannin; it’s ready to drink. Very good density, acidity and length for the money, with lingering bacon and vanilla flavours. Watch for the 2007 vintage when shopping; the 2006 bottles, which are not as good, may be on shelf.

New Vintages Releases

Posted on November 13, 2007

Wine of the Week
Plantatree 2006 Chardonnay, California ($14.95, 87 points, 64824)
A newsmaker on a couple of levels, not least of which is finally having decent wine in an alternative, eco-friendly package. It is being touted as the world’s first carbon-positive wine by creator Steven Campbell of Toronto-based Lifford Agencies. Two dollars and fifty cents from every bottle sold will go to planting trees near Sudbury, replacing the carbon emitted in the production and shipping of the wine. It is grown in California and bottled in lighter, recyclable plastic (PET) in Niagara. There are three wines in the series, with the barely oaked 2006 chardonnay being the best in my view—very fresh, balanced and clean—so lively, in fact, I thought it was a ripe sauvignon blanc when I was handed a glass at the launch reception at Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar last week. The 2005 merlot ($14.95, 65151) is very good as well—nicely supple, smooth and clean with typical jammy berry and woodsy flavours. The 2005 cabernet sauvignon ($14.95, 65102) is less appealing with some green, rhubarb flavours but no different than many other inexpensive cabernets grown at higher yields in warm climates. LCBO: wide distribution.

Holiday Shopping at Vintages

Posted on November 27, 2007

As much as I personally like to drag my heels on the issue of Christmas shopping, it was clearly evident from the throngs in the LCBO’s Bloor and Royal York store last Saturday afternoon that the season has been flung upon us. (I hear Royal York sold out of their 132-bottle allotment of Le Clos Jordanne—see Nov. 23 blog—by noon.) The upcoming January edition of Toronto Life has some great tips (and I hope inspiration) about buying fine wine at Christmas and offers suggestions from Vintages’ impressive Dec. 8 release. For those driven to finish their shopping this weekend, here are 10 worthy gifts already on the shelf, with largest stock allocations shown as of Nov. 26. To find stock at the store nearest you plug the LCBO product number shown into the Product Search function at www.lcbo.com.

Trophy Wines Sell Out

Posted on December 11, 2007

My Drink column in current issue of Toronto Life reviews ten very expensive, gifting wines released Saturday (December 8th) at Vintages, complete with a warning that you need to “step lively” to actually acquire them. I should have said set your alarm clock for 5 a.m. Within an hour or two of doors opening many of the trophy bottles were sold out.

Wine, Words and Wisdom

Posted on December 17, 2007

If you haven’t bought your special bottles for Christmas gifts you may be too late, as LCBO shelves will be emptying fast this week. Plan B? Nip into your local bookstore for a wine book.

My favourite wine moments of 2007

Posted on December 27, 2007

1Hidden Bench 2005 Nuits Blanche, Niagara
My head-spinning first tasting of a brilliant bordeaux-inspired white blend of sauvignon blanc and sémillon that went on to win white wine of the year at the Canadian Wine Awards. Hidden Bench opened in June and came out of nowhere to take runner-up for winery of the year.

Organized Wine Crime

Posted on January 8, 2008

Many assume that the LCBO’s control of the wine business in Ontario is an outgrowth of the anti-alcohol movement in the ’30s—to protect us from demon alcohol. Not really. Government took control to take organized crime out of the booze business during Prohibition and reap the tax rewards for its citizens. Who knew that this monopoly would end up being obtrusive and demanding in the manufacture and purveyance of a legal product in Ontario—at least as perceived by many who toil to make a living in the wine business.

Argentina’s Value Reds

Posted on January 16, 2008

On Saturday, January 19th, Vintages will release 20 new Argentine reds, with all but one priced between $13 and $20. The exception is Familia Mayol’s 2003 Cuatro Primos ($23.75), the best of the bunch. Argentine reds are hugely popular right now; they deliver ample ripeness, weight and presence for a decent price. The reason is a desert-like, yet water-managed climate that promotes both ripeness and huge production. This is what keeps prices moderate.

Surprising Australians in Vintages’ new release

Posted on January 30, 2008

The upcoming March issue of Toronto Life (on newsstands February 7th) contains reviews of 10 wines from Vintages’ February 2nd release, all of which have been rated 90 points or higher by other writers. In the spirit of helping you critique the critics, my reviews in the magazine compare my impressions and ratings to theirs, but there are certainly more than 10 interesting wines on this release.

Prince Edward County bubbly is born

Posted on February 6, 2008

A couple of milestones were celebrated during last Friday’s snowstorm, with the pop of a single cork at Huff Estate Winery in Prince Edward County. It was the first pouring of the first sparkling wine made in Canada’s newest VQA region, and the debut of Ontario’s most expensive sparkling wine to date (not counting sparkling icewine). Its proper name is Huff Estate 2004 Cuvée Peter F. Huff, named in honour of proprietor Lanny Huff’s late son. The price is $49.95—right up there with the many basic French champagnes that it dares emulate.

Legendary Henschke wines are coming to the LCBO

Posted on February 13, 2008

In most winemaking nations, there are a handful of family-run wineries that have risen to the summit of success based on unswerving quality. There is actually an auspicious international association called Primum Familiae Vini that promotes this notion (and they will be celebrating themselves with tastings and dinners in Vancouver, March 9 to 11). Thus far, they have no Australian members, so I would like to nominate Stephen and Prue Henschke, guiding lights to the benefits of family winery ownership, especially when that family is endowed with great passion, intelligence and inquiring minds.

Cabernet: Antidote to February

Posted on February 20, 2008

Cabernet sauvignon can do one job better than most wines: lift your spirits. And if Family Day didn’t quite cut it during this miserable February, may I recommend one of the following 90-points-plus cabernets sauvignons for the table one night this week. Buy some lamb from your favourite butcher, decant the wine the moment you get home, slip into your comfy duds, read the mail, start cooking, then breathe deeply. No other red grape is as capable of such soaring blackcurrant fragrance, such complexity, such power and elegance. At its best it combines true grit and symmetry.

Sweeping the pinot noir minefield

Posted on February 27, 2008

Every article I have ever read about pinot noir has noted that this is a grape that disappoints as often as it thrills—that it is necessary to be an adventurer, to be forgiving and able to get back in the saddle after forking out a substantial sum and finding the wine tart, mean or downright funky (especially when dealing with burgundy of lesser provenance) The red flag goes up again on March 1, when Vintages releases several burgundies from producers rarely seen here. There are a couple of winners, but overall the selection leaves me to ponder whether anyone is critically tasting these wines before they buy them. There is also a smattering from elsewhere, including Niagara, Oregon, California and B.C.’s Okanagan Valley, again with mixed results. As your minesweeper—and from the vantage point of pinot being my favourite variety—here is a review of every pinot I have tasted on this release, from best to worst:

The Best Fest in the West

Posted on March 5, 2008

I spent last weekend at the annual wine inundation known as Vancouver Playhouse Wine Festival—an event that locals and winery visitors argue is the best of its kind in Canada. It’s actually not even arguable, in my opinion (even if some easterners feel bruised by this admission). One would think that Toronto should be able to mount a show of this calibre, yet it never has. Hogtown’s big shows are for-profit, commercial ventures that tend to cheapen the content and keep the LCBO at a distance. The government cannot be promoting any commercial interest other than its own, and the reason that other wine shows work across Canada, including Playhouse, is that they have the full support of provincial liquor boards. One might ask why the government is in the wine retail business at all, but that’s a topic for another day.

B.C.’s Osoyoos-Larose Mid-Term Report

Posted on March 12, 2008

Vintages’ March 15 release features 1,000 cases of the 2004 vintage of B.C.’s storied Osoyoos-Larose, the Franco-Canadian joint venture rooted in the desert soils of the southern Okanagan. It is very good—88 points—but not excellent wine. At a reasonable $39.95, any serious B.C. and/or Bordeaux wine enthusiast can afford to decide for themselves, but a recent trade tasting of several vintages of Osoyoos-Larose at the Rosewater Supper Club in Toronto has not yet convinced me that a new Médoc is being minted in the Okanagan. Its creators argue they are not trying to recreate Bordeaux, but there is no question it is fashioned from the Bordeaux template, from the blend of the same five grape varieties to the winemaking staff to the techniques they have imported.

Matching with Malivoire

Posted on March 19, 2008

On a cold, snowy winter day (what else is new?) recently, I attended a wine tasting designed to be enjoyed as most of us actually drink wine—that is, with food. In the end, this meal was hardly average; it was served in the back of a tiny, fragrant bistro called Gamelle, where the tasters met with Niagara winemaker Martin Malivoire. We worked and played through 10 recent releases that were uncorked with a non-stop selection of small plates, sipping and nibbling in no particular order, unless a certain match made choirs sing and seduced us into tasting again.

California Greening

Posted on March 28, 2008

My column in the May issue of Toronto Life (on newsstands April 10) examines the burgeoning “green” wine movement, with observations and reviews based on tastings at the international Return to Terroir event in February, and Vintages’ organics release on March 29. Since then, I have compiled even more notes on the wine world’s most pressing trend. Much of the information and inspiration has come out of California, where “green” is becoming an industry-wide mantra. Grape growers are taking the lead in environmental practices and turning the heads of those in other sectors of California’s massive agricultural industry. Two insiders have told me that a stunning 55 per cent of Californian wine producers have now registered for a new program that allows for self-assessment of sustainable agriculture practices.

The Great One Gets Better

Posted on April 4, 2008

When Wayne Gretzky launched his Niagara wines last summer, I was not impressed. Priced under $15, the wines were not awful but average, and why buy average when there are good bottles for the same price? I had higher expectations given Number 99’s reputation for doing things well, and the whole exercise seemed steeped in marketing opportunism. I was not wrong on this, nor were those who created the brand: the Wayne Gretzky label has become the hottest seller among Ontario VQA wines on the LCBO general list.

Vintages’ April 12 Release: The Top 10

Posted on April 11, 2008

Vintages stores will be releasing dozens of new wines this Saturday. I have been able to taste most of them in advance along with other wine writers, a twice-monthly ritual that sees a couple dozen people sandwiched into a small white “lab” to work their way through almost 100 bottles. Some taste them all; some hit on a few big names. I am increasingly looking for quality above all else. The older one gets the more appropriate maxim “life is too short to drink (or taste and write about) bad wine.”

Nova Scotia’s New Eden

Posted on April 17, 2008

Nova Scotia might soon be a remarkable source of high-quality, expensive sparkling wine—the Champagne of North America.

California comes to Canada

Posted on April 28, 2008

The California Wine Fair rolls into the Fairmont Royal York Hotel on Monday, April 28, brimming with bottles that, by and large, cannot be found on the shelves of the LCBO. Of the 69 wines assembled for the fair’s preview media tasting last month, only 20 are currently available at Vintages or the LCBO. This doesn’t mean the LCBO is ignoring California: a big promo swings into gear in early May that introduces several new brands to the general list; and on Saturday, Vintages will be offering up a couple of dozen new releases as well. But the fair showcases so many, many more—a huge reservoir of wine either being sold direct to restaurateurs via the below-the-radar consignment program, or wines that want to be here and might just find a niche if they create a buzz at the fair. With so many wines and so little time, the grapevine goes electric. Why must all the big wine presentations in our city be so restrictive, so pressured, and in such chaos? And why must the pourers spend most of their time apologizing that we can’t actually buy the wine they are serving?

Cheers to Santé

Posted on May 6, 2008

The 10th annual Santé: Toronto International Wine Festival kicks off Monday, May 5, with a week-long tasting menu of winemaker dinners, special events and seminars in venues throughout Yorkville. California and Australia are this year’s headliners. Here is the roster of major events, complete with some of the wines and wineries worth investigating. For more details and tickets, check out the festival’s Web site, www.santewinefestival.net.

Blooming Whites

Posted on May 12, 2008

If you have never dedicated your wine budget to exploring the world’s aromatic whites, I suggest that now might be an opportune moment—when May is blossoming with fragrance, and some terrific bottles are selling for a song. The June issue of Toronto Life features reviews of 10 great aromatic whites from some of the world’s more obscure wine regions. Several others were tasted in researching the article, so I’ve reviewed them here. Plus, I’ve added a few classic selections from Germany and Niagara also released at Vintages on May 10.

Now is New Zealand’s moment

Posted on May 23, 2008

In Ontario, the momentum of New Zealand wines reaches a crescendo on May 24, when Vintages releases 28 labels from the Pacific’s tiny, perfect wine isles. There is no official count in progress, but this is one of the largest Vintages theme releases in memory, and chock full of exciting wines. It follows hard on the heels of the ever-popular New Zealand wine fair—held at the Design Exchange last week—where a tasting highlighted the new generation of such richer reds as syrah, malbec and tempranillo, and proved that the region is not a one-trick, cool-climate sauvignon blanc pony.

The LCBO’s blockbuster $10 deals

Posted on June 2, 2008

After tasting virtually the entire LCBO general list in preparation for the annual Toronto Life Eating & Drinking guide, I know it’s rare to find a great value wine for less than $10. This year’s tasting process is just getting underway, and while you may be sipping wines on the deck or dock this June and July, I’m tasting dozens of wines daily and want nothing more than a cleansing ale by shift’s end. (I ask no pity because I know none is forthcoming.) The upside to all this is having an up-to-date repertoire of the best bargains at the LCBO.

Ontario wine’s prime time

Posted on June 11, 2008

June has become the month for grand wine events in Ontario, timed to kick off the summer touring season. And this is sure to be a good year to go wine tripping: local wineries are strutting some fine bottlings from the 2007 vintage—the best in recent memory (see Toronto Life’s July issue)—although some styles will not be released for a few months, like the barrel-aged whites and reds. To help you plan your trip, here is a quick primer on some of the best events in the days ahead.

Niagara Auction Previews: The 2007 Reds

Posted on June 17, 2008

The colour was deep and the fruit was ripe among 10 Niagara reds showcased in the first public tasting of heavyweights from the 2007 vintage. These excellent wines were decanted during a barrel auction as part of the lucrative Niagara Wine Weekend and Auction, which netted a substantial amount for the SickKids Foundation and St. Catharines General Hospital. Over 1,000 people paid $1,000 each to attend the second annual afternoon garden party and gala black-tie dinner in The Commons in Niagara-on-the-Lake.

Rivers Run Through It: Vintages’ June 21 Release

Posted on June 25, 2008

The trumped-up theme for Vintages’ June 21 release is Europe’s Wine Rivers: Great Finds From Legendary Riverside Vineyards. South-facing riverside sites can deliver extra quality in northern Europe; they benefit from the increased heat of the better exposure. But winemakers, not riverbank exposure, are responsible for quality. There are some good wines in this selection, but hardly anything legendary. The real theme is Some Decent Wines We Put Together From Europe at About $20 So That We Could Spend Lots of Money on This Glossy Spread in the Catalogue. Here are 10 of the better buys from the Rivers selection, plus other noteworthy wines from elsewhere in the catalogue:

Good to the Last Drop

Posted on July 2, 2008

After a two-year run, during which I have enjoyed being back in the role of weekly wine commentator, this will be the last post of Lawrason on Wine. The editors are presently re-evaluating the content of torontolife.com, but my work will happily continue monthly in the print edition of Toronto Life, and I am now neck-deep in tasting the entire LCBO general list and Vintages Essentials for the Toronto Life Eating and Drinking Guide (coming in October). As well, we are discussing an exciting new Web-based project scheduled for release this autumn. So, while this is my final blog post, it is by no means an end—just a pause. Meanwhile, I will do my best to keep you up to date on local wine news and events, and post some reviews on my own site, davidlawrason.com. See you there, and enjoy your summer. PS: it’s time to drink rosé, and you can see my picks in the August issue of Toronto Life. Cheers!

David Lawrason

David Lawrason

David Lawrason has worked full time as one of Canada's leading, independent wine writers and educators for over 20 years. He was the founder of Wine Access magazine and Globe and Mail wine columnist for 13 years before becoming resident wine guy at Toronto Life, where he pens a monthly column and writes an exhaustive review of LCBO general listings for the annual Food and Wine Guide. As a wine educator he has taught sommelier programs at George Brown, Humber and Niagara Colleges, and has run popular public courses in Toronto since 1988. He has visited every major wine major producing country in the world, while focusing recently on the booming Canadian wine scene, as founder of the Canadian Wine Awards program, and Canadian wine columnist for Wine Access.

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