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Posts with category ‘France’

Twin Fin, Salmon Revival, Chateau de Beaucastel

Posted on May 4, 2006

It’s a rule of thumb (the purple thumb) that when the hype is about labels, demographics and price points, the wine in the bottle is likely mediocre—more so when cuddly critters are baring their commercial fangs. Which brings us to the LCBO general list and a new concept wine from California called Twin Fin (not the mascot of the San Jose Sharks). Twin Fin is actually decent wine but I’m not going to rave. It’s exactly the quality I expect from a $14.00 bottle, and fair value from California which still tends to be overpriced for what’s in the glass.

NZ Sauvignon Blanc, First Pinks, Carmen of Chile

Posted on May 23, 2006

New Zealand sauvignon blanc has joined the mainstream. This we know because a customer walked into an LCBO store in Kingston recently and asked the Product Consultant, “Have you got that stuff called Cat Piss on a Hot Tin Roof?" Of course, the befuddled shopper was really after Coopers Creek Cat Pee on a Gooseberry Bush, the presumably much tastier $14.00 NZ sauvignon named for two of this grape’s more common descriptors.

Vieux Télégraphe, Single Serve Stone Cellars

Posted on June 19, 2006

When the stakes are high, you gotta know when to hold 'em. An urbane, mild-mannered French winemaker named Daniel Brunier made two Toronto appearances late last week showcasing two family wineries from the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation in the south of France: the renowned Domaine Le Vieux Télégraphe, plus a newer, refurbished estate called Clos La Roquete. The most famed appellation of the southern Rhone is home to the world’s best known, most powerful and long-lived grenache-based reds, usually blended with syrah, mourvedre and other grapes—up to 22 are allowed. Although some Chateauneufs are robust and round enough to enjoy when young, others from top estates have considerable longevity.

B.C.'s Okanagan, Alsace, July 8 Release

Posted on July 10, 2006

There's still plenty of time this summer or fall to plan a wining-and-dining week in the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia, and you should. I’m on a two-week busman’s holiday in this blessed corner of the world to lay ground work for the Wine Access Canadian Wine Awards to be held in Penticton in September, and to attend the 25th anniversary celebration for Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, the first estate winery in the Okanagan. The Valley has indeed come of age, bursting with confidence, energy, growth and traffic. Driving the wine route, I can’t believe the number of new wineries that have popped out of the hills—now over 100.

Buckhorn Festival, Unoaked Chardonnay, Fevre Chabl

Posted on July 24, 2006

Summery, mild-mannered, unoaked chardonnay is a style that Ontario does very well. Most refresh the palate like a crisp new apple, with better examples sewing in mineral and leesy complexity—just as in good Chablis, the spiritual homeland of the genre. I was reminded of Ontario’s growing prowess with this style while grazing at the 10th Annual Fiesta Buckhorn on Saturday in Kawartha cottage country. This event has grown from the vision of one local Ontario wine evangelist named Larry Paterson into a three-day wine, beer and culinary weekend that attracts hundreds and raises funds for the Buckhorn Community Centre, 30 minutes northeast of Peterborough on the Trent-Severn Waterway. It’s like summer camp for wine fans, with over 75 exhibitors stationed in a series of cabins plus the main community hall. 49 Ontario wineries were pouring, often skippered by proprietors and winemakers themselves. In other words it has become a big deal, and when part of leisurely summer weekend for Kawartha cottagers and Trent boaters it’s can’t help be relaxed and fun. It’s the most unpretentious, undressed wine event you’ll ever attend, so make a note now to attend next year—the third weekend of July.

And A Big Time Was Had by All

Posted on October 30, 2006

If the chef at your favourite high end restaurant wasn’t on the premises last Saturday night it’s likely because he or she was cooking in a private residence for the Grand Cru Culinary Festival. Twenty-five chefs fanned out through the city’s swankiest neighbourhoods where they each teamed up with one of 25 famous winemakers from around the world to present lavish meals to 18 guests per residence. Each person paid $2,500 per to raise funds for the Toronto General & Western Hospital Foundation and the University Health Network, a leading teaching and research facility. I was unable to attend any of the dinners this year (the festival is in its second year), but I did attend the private tasting Thursday evening at a posh Versailles-like home in the Post Road area, where each of the winemakers personally presented two or three wines to 200 guests. My highlights in a moment.

The Real Beaujolais

Posted on November 20, 2006

Did you have your glass of Beaujolais Nouveau this weekend? I know, it’s about as much fun as a flu shot. I have been in four different fine dining Toronto restaurants—plus one in Belleville and one in Prince Edward County—since Beaujolais Nouveau release day last Thursday, and I can only report the virtual silence about Nouveau this year. Very few displays, posters, chat, or bottles on tables. I tried it at the LCBO Thursday morning and the diagnosis was "thin, simple and sour," so I would not recommend spending $13 to $15. I then moved on later in the day to Jamie Kennedy Restaurant and Wine Bar where there was fine, dawdling, conversational mid-afternoon Beaujolais tasting underway with the terrific gamays from Pascal Granger of Julienas.

Wine of the Week & Michel Rolland in Toronto

Posted on January 30, 2007

Chateau Fontenil 2004 Fronsac ****
Bordeaux, France ($49, Vintages 35907)
This property near Libourne in Bordeaux’s right bank is the domicile of winemaker Michel Rolland, the subject of this week’s feature. The Fronsac appellation is famous (or infamous) for having a strong mineral flavour and austere tannin; it’s interesting, but hardly mouth-watering merlot. Fontenil shows that minerality too, but embroidered by the perfectly ripened berry fruit and fine tannin—a lovely wine with poise, purity and nuance. I’ve not tasted a Fronsac like this before, but I did recognize its place. It's part of a special Vintages offering (see below).

Chablis' Comeback

Posted on February 20, 2007

Wine of the Week
Pommier 2004 Côte De Lechet Chablis 1er Cru **** ($32.95, Vintages 23747)
From a small domain run by the married team of Denise and Isabelle Pommier, who began production on a small family property using traditional techniques, then switched to partial barrel fermentation in 1998. Apple/pear fruit quality is nicely ripe, with a touch of vanilla, herbs and spices. Medium weight, with terrific grip and balance and a lime, mineral and spicy finish that hits excellent length. Very enjoyable now, should please through 2010.

Vintages Pumps up Web Offerings

Posted on February 26, 2007

Wine of the Week
Maison Chanson 2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir **** ($19.00, www.winetrader.ca)
Encountered at a Burgundy tasting at the Fairmont Royal York on February 17, this spiffy, lighter pinot noir heralds the very fine quality and firm elegance of Burgundy’s 2005 vintage. Others (see below) tasted that day and since have confirmed that it will be a classic. Nifty aromas combine ripe cherry, vanilla, wood spice and pine. It’s light to medium bodied, slender and seamless with a slightly tart finish. Very good length. Best 2008 to 2011. Available by the case only from Hanna & Sons, but you’ll not regret having it at your beck and call when a lighter pinot is required. See other well priced 2005s below.

Alsace Weekend

Posted on June 19, 2007

Wine of the Week
Paul Zinck 2005 Riesling (89 points, $19.95, www.liffordwineagency.com)
Alsace, France
This is a fulsome, fruity, dry riesling from a warm vintage in Alsace, showing all the expected attributes of apple, with a touch of honey and petrol. Nicely fleshy, with a ripe-fruited sweetness on the palate, refreshing acidity and a dry finish. Only available by the case from Lifford Agencies, but visit the site and ask about other Zinck wines as well. This producer has always impressed.

Beaujolais BBQ

Posted on July 18, 2007

Wine of the Week
Jadot 2006 Combe Aux Jacques Beaujolais-Villages ($16.95, 89 points, 7682)
The new vintage gushes gamay charm, and yes, elegance. Lovely sweet aroma black cherry-raspberry fruit in fresh cream with gentle pepper and underbrush/berry patch nuances. Medium bodied, rounded and fruity with a tart juiciness on the finish. Very good length. The 2006 should be arriving anytime. If you see the 2005 on the shelf grab it anyway—slightly bigger, drinking very well. Vintages Essential.

A Case of Affordable Burgundies

Posted on November 6, 2007

Wine of the Week
Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils 2005 Beaune du Château 1er Cru, Burgundy, France ($41.95, 91 points, 901199)
Tasted twice in the past week, and my estimation grows. Fragrant, inviting nose rises from the glass with lovely smoky, creamy and spicy barrel notes that nicely frame ripe cranberry-cherry fruit. Mid-weight, firm and a bit aggressive for now, with slightly green tannin and a bitter cranberry finish. Excellent length and flavour focus. Best 2011 to 2015. In Vintages Nov. 10.

A Glimpse at the Bordeaux 2005s

Posted on January 23, 2008

Four hundred and fifty people jammed a Four Seasons Hotel ballroom Wednesday night (January 22) for a rare home-turf tasting of the famed Bordeaux 2005 vintage. Over 100 wines were poured by 75 châteaux from the Union des Grands Cru de Bordeaux, a trade organization currently on a North American tour to sell what many are calling an excellent and classic vintage.

Sweeping the pinot noir minefield

Posted on February 27, 2008

Every article I have ever read about pinot noir has noted that this is a grape that disappoints as often as it thrills—that it is necessary to be an adventurer, to be forgiving and able to get back in the saddle after forking out a substantial sum and finding the wine tart, mean or downright funky (especially when dealing with burgundy of lesser provenance) The red flag goes up again on March 1, when Vintages releases several burgundies from producers rarely seen here. There are a couple of winners, but overall the selection leaves me to ponder whether anyone is critically tasting these wines before they buy them. There is also a smattering from elsewhere, including Niagara, Oregon, California and B.C.’s Okanagan Valley, again with mixed results. As your minesweeper—and from the vantage point of pinot being my favourite variety—here is a review of every pinot I have tasted on this release, from best to worst:

B.C.’s Osoyoos-Larose Mid-Term Report

Posted on March 12, 2008

Vintages’ March 15 release features 1,000 cases of the 2004 vintage of B.C.’s storied Osoyoos-Larose, the Franco-Canadian joint venture rooted in the desert soils of the southern Okanagan. It is very good—88 points—but not excellent wine. At a reasonable $39.95, any serious B.C. and/or Bordeaux wine enthusiast can afford to decide for themselves, but a recent trade tasting of several vintages of Osoyoos-Larose at the Rosewater Supper Club in Toronto has not yet convinced me that a new Médoc is being minted in the Okanagan. Its creators argue they are not trying to recreate Bordeaux, but there is no question it is fashioned from the Bordeaux template, from the blend of the same five grape varieties to the winemaking staff to the techniques they have imported.

Blooming Whites

Posted on May 12, 2008

If you have never dedicated your wine budget to exploring the world’s aromatic whites, I suggest that now might be an opportune moment—when May is blossoming with fragrance, and some terrific bottles are selling for a song. The June issue of Toronto Life features reviews of 10 great aromatic whites from some of the world’s more obscure wine regions. Several others were tasted in researching the article, so I’ve reviewed them here. Plus, I’ve added a few classic selections from Germany and Niagara also released at Vintages on May 10.

David Lawrason

David Lawrason

David Lawrason has worked full time as one of Canada's leading, independent wine writers and educators for over 20 years. He was the founder of Wine Access magazine and Globe and Mail wine columnist for 13 years before becoming resident wine guy at Toronto Life, where he pens a monthly column and writes an exhaustive review of LCBO general listings for the annual Food and Wine Guide. As a wine educator he has taught sommelier programs at George Brown, Humber and Niagara Colleges, and has run popular public courses in Toronto since 1988. He has visited every major wine major producing country in the world, while focusing recently on the booming Canadian wine scene, as founder of the Canadian Wine Awards program, and Canadian wine columnist for Wine Access.

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